tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-75793818356501473042024-03-17T02:54:35.523-04:00The Japanese Pattern ChallengeA blog born from the desire for a winter coat in a color other than black. With limited sewing experience and no knowledge of Japanese I've worked through all the patterns in Ryuichiro Shimazaki's book on men's coats. If I can do it, anyone can! But the challenges continue. Join me as I continue to explore the world of menswear. I AM my own luxury brand!Mainelydadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05718855427399616514noreply@blogger.comBlogger246125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7579381835650147304.post-73855442553454770542018-05-12T22:13:00.001-04:002018-05-22T18:10:08.110-04:00I've moved! Please follow me to my new home... <a href="http://mainelymenswear.com/">Mainelymenswear.com</a><br />
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Someday I hope to find a way to automatically redirect viewers to the new blog. But for now you'll just have to click on the link. <br />
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The new blog is a work in progress, so please be patient. I have a lot to learn about Wordpress! <br />
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<br />Mainelydadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05718855427399616514noreply@blogger.com340tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7579381835650147304.post-48554249894629278572018-03-01T08:50:00.000-05:002018-03-01T08:50:21.260-05:00Instagram, a first step Gotta gotta start somewhere....right?
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I'll be updating my progress on Instagram, which is ALL NEW to me. You'll find me at <a href="https://www.instagram.com/mainelymenswear/?hl=en">https://www.instagram.com/mainelymenswear/?hl=en</a>.Mainelydadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05718855427399616514noreply@blogger.com15tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7579381835650147304.post-14454291269450882162018-02-28T06:39:00.000-05:002018-02-28T06:39:06.815-05:00Change is in the wind Sadly, the blogging app that I've been using for years has gone kaput.
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RIP Blogsy, you rescued me from Google Blogger's hell.
I'm going to be packing my bags and looking for a new home. Not sure where that will be, or what form it will take. There's lots that this tech challenged man needs to figure out.
I'm hoping for a new look, a metamorphosis of sorts.
Fingers crossed!
(Even this brief post frustrated the hell out of me. Oh Blogger, you've gotta GO!) Mainelydadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05718855427399616514noreply@blogger.com14tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7579381835650147304.post-15139149018934287612018-02-25T21:29:00.001-05:002018-02-25T21:29:58.013-05:00Suit progress and... learning some new skills <p> With the jacket fronts complete I moved on to the sleeves. It was a nice break from all the detail work (pockets, taping and pad stitching). The sleeve construction is really quite simple, it just gets fussy where the lining meets the vents. </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/39413561184/in/set-72157665477051038" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4751/39413561184_6a25355ca0.jpg" id="blogsy-1519611625175.135" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> </p><p>A wide strip of pocketing cut on the bias is basted into sleeve cuff. The vents and hem are folded into position and slip stitched into the pocketing. </p><p> </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/26251312018/in/set-72157665477051038" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4700/26251312018_e095e521e3.jpg" id="blogsy-1519611625191.5813" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> </p><p>No stitches are visible from the outside. It's like the hem is held in place by magic! </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/38538025960/in/set-72157665477051038" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title=""><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4609/38538025960_084e76db21.jpg" id="blogsy-1519611625182.6367" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> </p><p>Getting the lining in around the vents is NOT magic! It took me awhile to figure out what part overlaps what, and how to get from one side to the other. Working with lining material is its own special hell. It's a lot of frustrating work for something that will never be seen! </p><p> </p><p>Moving on..... </p><p> </p><p> Are there any perfect patterns? Hmmmmm. This pattern, as much as I like it, has its issues. The first issue to rear its head turned out to be the jacket front facing (which becomes the lapel when it's folded back). The lapel edge is curved. Why is this a problem? If you're working with a stripe, the stripe will fall off the lapel rather than be parallel to it. My fabric has a subtle striation to it, so the front facing needs to redrafted. </p><p> </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/38578300440/in/set-72157665477051038" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4750/38578300440_238831d24c.jpg" id="blogsy-1519611625160.0579" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> </p><p>The original pattern piece is on the bottom. Notice the curved edge. The new pattern piece on top is drawn with a straight edge. Using an iron and LOTS of steam, the new facing is curved to match the original pattern piece. Steam is used to shrink the other side of the facing which will ripple up during the process. This is where working with wool is a wonder! </p><p> </p><p>Once this step is accomplished a new front lining will have to be drafted. Usually I make an inside breast pocket that slightly overlaps onto the facing. This is pretty standard stuff on all RTW jackets. But now all my usual pattern pieces are out the window. Arghhhh, what to do? </p><p> </p><p>I turn to Cabrera's "Barcelona" pocket. </p><p> </p><p>Confession..... I can get totally freaked out by sewing illustrations. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/40290330161/in/set-72157665477051038" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4675/40290330161_7f406508e5.jpg" id="blogsy-1519611625158.1143" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> </p><p>Just looking at this scares the sh** out of me! In my head I just assume that this is WAY beyond my ability. I've always skipped over these pages of Cabrera's book, and retreated to familiar territory. But this time I'm pretty much forced to confront it. And guess what? </p><p> </p><p>It's way easier than I ever imagined! </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/40092519652/in/set-72157665477051038" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4612/40092519652_ccdd9521be.jpg" id="blogsy-1519611625193.4539" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> </p><p> Like so many things in tailoring, it really comes down to careful measuring and taking things one little step at a time. Making the Barcelona was actually less work than the usual double piping pocket that I've used in the past. I'm sold! If you can measure and cut a rectangle, you can make this pocket. </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/39392771285/in/set-72157665477051038" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title=""><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4712/39392771285_a772c00903.jpg" id="blogsy-1519611625208.1458" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> </div><p> And here is the completed pocket. I did add one extra step....I fused a very lightweight interfacing to the back of the lining. This made it much easier to work with, and I'm all for that. </p><p> </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/40290325181/in/set-72157665477051038" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4623/40290325181_c53f240d5c.jpg" id="blogsy-1519611625134.6074" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> </p><p> Working along, the jacket pieces get sewn together and the lining pieces are basted into position. I know this isn't everyone's cup of tea. The combination of basting and having extra wide seam allowances on the lining pieces makes this process much easier. This is the essence of "slow fashion", and it can actually be very satisfying. Using silk thread for the slipstiching makes it go so much easier because it's much less inclined to tangle. </p><p> </p><p>My next issue turned out to be the collar. I've made this jacket a few other times and have fiddled with the pattern piece multiple times. Somehow I've lost the revised pattern, because what I have doesn't come close to fitting the neck opening. GRrrrr. I should take better care of my patterns when I file them away.</p><p> </p><p>Enter more intimidating illustrations! </p><p> </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/38480435430/in/set-72157665477051038" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4710/38480435430_76b461fb16_c.jpg" id="blogsy-1519611625187.7817" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="666"></a></div><p> </p><p>This takes me back to the nightmare of Algebra II in highschool. I never dreamed that I'd be using this page from Cabrera, but here I am needing to draft a new collar. And guess what..... this was F'ing easier than the Barcelona pocket!!! </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/38480438500/in/set-72157665477051038" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title=""><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4621/38480438500_b683ae8a4f.jpg" id="blogsy-1519611625186.2898" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> </p><p> I just followed along step by step, and voila! Here is the original pattern piece (white) sitting on top of the new pattern (brown). Any wonder I couldn't get it to fit? Another new skill obtained. </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/40125622261/in/set-72157665477051038" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4611/40125622261_aeccb3cdac.jpg" id="blogsy-1519611625171.951" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> </p><p> The collar is constructed on a base of French canvas and undercollar felt. It doesn't show in this picture, but a piece of pocketing is sandwiched between the layers at the collar ends to add even additional body. </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/40125624981/in/set-72157665477051038" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4616/40125624981_70787ac01c.jpg" id="blogsy-1519611625138.719" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> </p><p> The whole assembly is pad stitched together in a circular pattern. Because the components are very stiff, it's sort of like pad stitching a cardboard box. Silk thread makes the process easier. After pad stitching the collar it's shaped on a tailor's ham with lots of steam. The result is well worth every bit of effort; and having done it a few times, I wouldn't consider making the collar any other way. </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/38480442250/in/set-72157665477051038" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4604/38480442250_3e8c1208af.jpg" id="blogsy-1519611625214.442" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> </p><p>Here is the collar attached to the neckline of the jacket. The newly drafted pattern fit perfectly. This is a good place to stop for now. </p><div style="text-align: right; font-size: small; clear: both;" id="blogsy_footer"><a href="http://blogsyapp.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://blogsyapp.com/images/blogsy_footer_icon.png" alt="Posted with Blogsy" style="vertical-align: middle; margin-right: 5px;" width="20" height="20" />Posted with Blogsy</a></div>Mainelydadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05718855427399616514noreply@blogger.com18tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7579381835650147304.post-26929719834820840542018-02-15T21:13:00.001-05:002018-02-15T21:18:29.298-05:00Next up -- Wedding #2<p> Here we go, another wedding! This time, my beautiful and uber talented daughter is marrying. The place -- Oakland, CA. The date -- April Fool's Day (which also turns out to be Easter this year). </p><p> </p><p>My travel arrangements are all made, but my Father of the Bride wardrobe is sorely lacking. My daughter floated the idea of my wearing my whole Scottish kilt garb, but I think it's way too flashy. I think the bride should be the star of the show, not her crazy old man. Call me old fashioned, but I think a dark (dark-ish) suit is called for. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/28358782969/in/set-72157665477051038" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4705/28358782969_9e3a3f968d.jpg" id="blogsy-1518747476975.6165" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="500"></a></div><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/39424676024/in/set-72157665477051038" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4741/39424676024_8284242819_c.jpg" id="blogsy-1518747477041.5046" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><p> </p><p>Enter "La Mer" from <a href="http://www.sawyerbrook.com/" target="_blank" title="">Sawyer Brook Fabrics</a>, a heathered / striated 100% wool suiting from Italy. Wow! The quality of this fabric completely exceeds my expectations. I ordered it from a swatch and can't be happier. The yardage I received is <strong>flawless</strong>, and I absolutely love the color -- a dark teal blue. (Unfortunately my cheap point and shoot camera does a horrible job capturing the color). Sawyer Brook offers a swatch service, which I will most likely subscribe to. Their retail store is in central Massachusetts, about a 3 hour drive for me, and I can easily foresee a field trip in my future. </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/25253226767/in/set-72157665477051038" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4714/25253226767_fbe967f04e_c.jpg" id="blogsy-1518747476985.298" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><p> </p><p> I prepped the fabric using the London Shrink method. I've done this many times, and it's a safe and reliable way to preshrink wool fabrics. Cotton sheeting is soaked in water and then well wrung out. It's sandwiched into the fold of the material. </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/40092457352/in/set-72157665477051038" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4710/40092457352_61a0f24039.jpg" id="blogsy-1518747477006.2544" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> </p><p>Once everything is sandwiched, the fabric can be folded up and wrapped in plastic to set overnight. The moisture from the sheeting is absorbed into the wool to create a uniform dampness. The yardage is then air dried and ironed. This suiting required almost no ironing once it dried. There <strong>are</strong> benefits to working with high quality fabrics! </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/39226162075/in/set-72157665477051038" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title=""><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4655/39226162075_b438b1a3a8.jpg" id="blogsy-1518747477000.4731" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> </p><p> I have no access to menswear tailoring supplies here in Maine. Maybe you have the same issue? Fear not, B. Black and Sons to the rescue. They offer a <a href="http://www.bblackandsons.com/jacket-packet-p-312.html?zenid=tncrspfjp24r99ptk29clrfu13" target="_blank" title="">"Jacket Packet"</a> which contains everything you'll need. A pair of premade haircanvas jacket fronts, more than enough lining material (I think you could actually screw up a piece and have enough to recut another!). Sleeve lining, a huge piece of pocketing, collar felt, a strip of French canvas for the collar, shoulder pads and sleeve heads. (The buttons aren't so hot). This packet is my "go to" when a trip to NYC is out of the question. </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/39578907774/in/set-72157665477051038" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4745/39578907774_9c5610c343_c.jpg" id="blogsy-1518747477010.105" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="666"></a></div><p> </p><p>I'll be using my old standby, this very beat up Bill Blass suit pattern from the early 80's. This is just a nice all around jacket pattern. No crazy lapels, typical menswear pockets, vented sleeves and double back vents. I've only made the trousers once, but they're also straight forward, classic. </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/26251351328/in/set-72157665477051038" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4704/26251351328_2be74142ac.jpg" id="blogsy-1518747476989.0247" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> </p><p> I won't go into great detail. The jacket fronts are by far the most work. I use Roberto Cabrera's book on menswear tailoring as my guide. None of it is particularly hard, it just pays to be as accurate as possible, both in measuring as well as sewing. If I'm tired or "just not feeling it" I put everything aside. Things go so much better when I'm fresh, which is usually the next morning. </p><p> </p><p>Another huge benefit is having the right thread to work with. Real cotton basting thread and a spool of silk thread that matches the fabric makes the work go so much faster, and with less aggravation. So much of tailoring is about control. All the basting is about taking control of the fabric and making it conform to the body. </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/26251348248/in/set-72157665477051038" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title=""><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4757/26251348248_cb350b5a94.jpg" id="blogsy-1518747477026.4878" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> </p><p>Here are the completed fronts. From here I like to move to the sleeves. They're made fully lined, and there's a fair amount of fussy work around the vents. I HATE working with polyester lining material, so the sooner this part is over the better! </p><p> </p><p> So far, so good. Be well, and enjoy your current sewing projects! </p><p> </p><div style="text-align: right; font-size: small; clear: both;" id="blogsy_footer"><a href="http://blogsyapp.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://blogsyapp.com/images/blogsy_footer_icon.png" alt="Posted with Blogsy" style="vertical-align: middle; margin-right: 5px;" width="20" height="20" />Posted with Blogsy</a></div>Mainelydadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05718855427399616514noreply@blogger.com12tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7579381835650147304.post-14558371415618814312018-02-06T20:40:00.001-05:002018-02-06T22:39:00.058-05:00Wedding #1, the recap<p> I realize that I never really wrapped up the kilt project(s). It all got a little overwhelming. Rather than blab on and on about the whole endeavor, I think I'll just let the wedding photographer's blog post illustrate what an extraordinary event two amazing young people, and their loving families, created on a farm in Maine.</p><p> </p><p><a href="http://iamsarahv.com/blog/weddings/william-allen-farm-maine-wedding-photographers-fall/">http://iamsarahv.com/blog/weddings/william-allen-farm-maine-wedding-photographers-fall/</a><br></p><p> </p><p>Having my son ask me to make a kilt (and the whole nine yards) was a huge honor. We're talking real once in a lifetime stuff. If there's anything my sewing journey has taught me, it's that there's value in the "realness" of the clothes that we create. Yes, there may be little mistakes here and there, something that could have turned out better, but in the end what we make is honest. And all those threads....not only the physical ones that are holding things together, but the emotional, spiritual, loving threads we spin, simply can't be had "off the rack". </p><p> </p><p><u>Credits</u></p><p>Tartan fabric, Strathmore 11.5 oz, "Dress MacLeod". -- <a href="http://www.irishtraditionsonline.com/index.htm" target="_blank" title="">Irish Traditions, Annapolis, MD </a></p><p>Wool suiting and linings. -- AK Fabrics, NYC </p><p>Tuxedo satin and tailoring supplies. -- <a href="http://www.bblackandsons.com/" target="_blank" title="">B Black and Son</a>s </p><p>Pewter Prince Charlie buttons. -- <a href="http://www.threefeatherspewter.com/" target="_blank" title="">Three Feathers Pewter , Millersburg, OH</a> </p><p>Custom dress sporran. -- <a href="https://www.artisansofscotland.com/" target="_blank" title="">Artisans of Scotlan</a>d </p><p>Kilt hose, Clan kilt pin and brooch. -- <a href="https://www.usakilts.com/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIuNGs_eqS2QIVrp3tCh13FAJoEAAYASAAEgIpyvD_BwE" target="_blank" title="">USA Kilts</a> </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/40127436121/in/set-72157678700058525" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4657/40127436121_6b2d587cfe_z.jpg" id="blogsy-1517974670772.4407" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="606"></a></div><p> </p><p>One final twirl! </p><div style="text-align: right; font-size: small; clear: both;" id="blogsy_footer"><a href="http://blogsyapp.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://blogsyapp.com/images/blogsy_footer_icon.png" alt="Posted with Blogsy" style="vertical-align: middle; margin-right: 5px;" width="20" height="20" />Posted with Blogsy</a></div>Mainelydadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05718855427399616514noreply@blogger.com27tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7579381835650147304.post-43072481863789785472017-12-24T18:43:00.001-05:002017-12-26T07:44:54.925-05:00The ?Couture? Jacket -- Wrap-up<p> Do you remember that I was considering making a "French Couture jacket"? It was ages ago. You've probably forgotten the whole thing. I armed myself with Claire Schaefer's book, cranberry wool tweed woven by my mom, bronze buttons and some foufy mohair trim. So what the hell happened.....where to begin? </p><p>The general consensus from you, my readers, was that the froufrou trim had to go. I'm just not Pharrell Williams enough to pull that look off. On me, it would be "ladies who lunch" gone WAY wrong. So I went back to the trim stores in NYC and settled on a burgundy faux suede with contrast edge stitching. Decidedly simpler but not flexible enough to conform to my pattern's curved collar and lower front edges. Rather than fight with the trim to make it curve, something it was NEVER going to do, I squared off the collar and jacket fronts. In sewing, as in life, you have to pick your battles. </p><p> </p><p>Overall, the pattern was fairly easy to fit. I increased the width of the collar (there just wasn't enough room for the trim), shortened the body by about 4" and added extra curve to the upper back (the dowager's hump adjustment, ouch! Like that doesn't make me feel ancient). Then the real games began. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/36532283320/in/set-72157677842752402" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4339/36532283320_1cc0370b9a.jpg" id="blogsy-1514292267977.3677" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> </p><p> Straight up....if you're looking for the most complicated and time consuming way to construct a garment, this "Couture jacket" will be right up your alley. None of it is particularly difficult....cumbersome is the word that comes to mind. Here I'm cutting off all the pattern seam allowances to start. </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/24408154377/in/set-72157677842752402" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4692/24408154377_2e046e248c.jpg" id="blogsy-1514292267935.5977" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> </p><p> </p><p> Then the pattern shapes are thread traced onto the fabric. There is, of course, a very specific way in which this is done. Thankfully, Schaefer's book is well illustrated. The grain line, notches and any other marks are also marked with thread. Get ready to use a huge amount of cotton basting thread! </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/38562865554/in/set-72157677842752402" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4639/38562865554_f0958995fd.jpg" id="blogsy-1514292267965.2664" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br><br></div><p> </p><p> Each thread traced piece is on a rectangle of fabric. I swear, the real "luxury" of this construction method is the shear waste of precious fabric that ensues. The fabric gets handled extensively, so I ran all the cut edges through my serger to prevent raveling. </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/39241407602/in/set-72157677842752402" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4642/39241407602_67ff46d68f_c.jpg" id="blogsy-1514292267903.8845" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="666"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> </div><div class="separator" style="text-align: left; clear: both;">I'm not really sure what part this is, but the thread traced seamlines get lined up, basted together (harder to do accurately than one might think), and then sewn on the machine. I then chalk marked generous seam allowances and ran them through the serger to both finish them and cut them down to a manageable size. So much of my mom's handweaving went into the trash. Criminal.<br></div><p> </p><p>This is about as far as I got sticking to Claire Schaefer's directions. I started to veer off on my own course... more tailored jacket, less floppy cardigan. </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/37974250806/in/set-72157677842752402" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4508/37974250806_b73920b353.jpg" id="blogsy-1514292267956.7961" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> </p><p> I'm sure Coco rolled over in her grave on this one. I interfaced my jacket fronts with a lightweight hair canvas. The "couture jacket" has just the tiniest strip of silk organza selvedge caught in the front edge openings. I also stabilized the shoulder seam with a semi-bias strip of lining material. That's a Roberto Cabrera thing. </p><p> </p><p>Veering even further of course, I wanted welt pockets and bound buttonholes. Not the patch pockets and handworked buttonholes that are the hallmarks of the couture jacket. Oh, and that "Coco-ism". -- "No button without a buttonhole". Forget that!</p><p> I don't know about you, but I always like to practice the tricky bits before I launch into something that has the potential of ruining a project. So....</p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/24400870397/in/set-72157677842752402" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title=""><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4680/24400870397_783098b1f0.jpg" id="blogsy-1514292267893.7014" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> </div><p> This is a mock up welt pocket that I made with left over scraps. I used Edna Bishop's method. She calls it a "regulation welt pocket". It's surprisingly simple and straightforward once you get up the nerve to start slashing your fabric! For this jacket, I needed to prove to myself that it was going to be possible, considering the bulk of the fabric. I tried to reduce bulk in every way possible. </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/24400892997/in/set-72157677842752402" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title=""><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4592/24400892997_ffafd07402.jpg" id="blogsy-1514292267923.3213" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> </p><p>As luck would have it, making the pocket was entirely possible. The welt is lined with silk charmeuse to reduce its thickness, and there's some serging that will never be visible to keep some seams flatter. So the welt pockets are a go. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/39234875102/in/set-72157677842752402" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title=""><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4587/39234875102_c04cf410a8.jpg" id="blogsy-1514292267952.3413" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> </p><p> I also made a trial bound buttonhole. The welt is the reverse side of my silk charmeuse beefed up with a scrap of <a href="https://www.fashionsewingsupply.com/product_info.php?cPath=22&products_id=78&osCsid=909be2ec95c47a7118395193eaec6b15" target="_blank" title="">Fashion Sewing Supply's Pro-weft Supreme fusible</a>. Reassured that these features are indeed possible, it was full steam ahead. </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/26252043449/in/set-72157677842752402" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4447/26252043449_b5f41cb505.jpg" id="blogsy-1514292267922.1294" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> </p><p>A piece of silk organza was used as a reinforcement for the welt opening. </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/26252041359/in/set-72157677842752402" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4501/26252041359_ba4d106b38.jpg" id="blogsy-1514292267988.2896" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> </p><p>The pocket in process. I baste a lot! But it's always time well spent. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/26252044869/in/set-72157677842752402" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title=""><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4467/26252044869_25f7371699.jpg" id="blogsy-1514292267976.2659" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> </p><p>Here is the finished pocket (a success) , and the beginning of a MAJOR screw-up. Maybe you see it. I positioned the welt for the second buttonhole on the WRONG side of the jacket. I blissfully followed Laura Mae's fabulous bound buttonhole tutorial<a href="http://www.lauramaedesigns.com/2012/08/bound-buttonholes-tutorial.html" target="_blank" title=""> (here)</a>, marked, stitched, cut open and flipped everything to the.... </p><p>WTF have I done moment!!!! </p><p> Once my blood pressure was back under control, I set about correcting the mess I'd made. I positioned a new welt piece onto the outside of the jacket (where it should have been in the first place) and restitched everything directly over my original stitching. I then very carefully cut the incorrect welt away as close to the stitching as I could get. With tweezers I was able to remove any remaining fibers. Disaster averted. The buttonhole may be a touch smaller than the rest, but I don't think anyone else would notice. Fortunately, there were no other screw ups.<br></p><p> </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/37997204972/in/set-72157677842752402" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4471/37997204972_d7174ec4e8.jpg" id="blogsy-1514292267942.3743" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> </p><p>Arcane construction becomes the norm. Mon Dieu! I quite honestly can't remember how I attached the sleeves, but somehow it happened. </p><p> But I've blabbed on long enough. If you've stayed with me this far, scroll down through more "in process" pics to see the final result. </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/38027913131/in/set-72157677842752402" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4492/38027913131_0b2b7bddf7.jpg" id="blogsy-1514292267903.5671" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/37318853094/in/set-72157677842752402" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4448/37318853094_09a1bd3bca.jpg" id="blogsy-1514292267909.9202" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/24175812118/in/set-72157677842752402" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4463/24175812118_0cf242ede5_c.jpg" id="blogsy-1514292267919.764" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/27487596169/in/set-72157677842752402" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4634/27487596169_56f2a69f96_c.jpg" id="blogsy-1514292267907.5872" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="666"></a></div><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/39234906782/in/set-72157677842752402" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4639/39234906782_7d1ccfb1e9.jpg" id="blogsy-1514292267985.8237" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/38555825984/in/set-72157677842752402" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4598/38555825984_e97c45d099_c.jpg" id="blogsy-1514292267908.2014" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/25397527278/in/set-72157677842752402" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title=""><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4726/25397527278_0932677734_c.jpg" id="blogsy-1514292267986.9646" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/38556701364/in/set-72157677842752402" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4680/38556701364_5ce8cf0f58_c.jpg" id="blogsy-1514292267937.7043" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="666"></a></div><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/27488500499/in/set-72157677842752402" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4736/27488500499_93612bccd0_c.jpg" id="blogsy-1514292267954.0483" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="666"></a></div><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/39235688422/in/set-72157677842752402" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4736/39235688422_ce25e85d1a_c.jpg" id="blogsy-1514292267941.112" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="660"></a></div><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/38387215375/in/set-72157677842752402" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4587/38387215375_bd6176f9c2_z.jpg" id="blogsy-1514292267911.1555" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="540"></a></div><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/39264339151/in/set-72157677842752402" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4597/39264339151_dc456a17c7_c.jpg" id="blogsy-1514292267944.4536" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="666"></a></div><p> </p><p>I wore this outfit to host a rehearsal dinner for my son's wedding in October. By then, all the complexities and frustrations of constructing the jacket were a thing of the past, and I just enjoyed wearing it. It truly turned out to be exactly what I wanted. My idea, my execution. A way to honor my mom's artistry and craftsmanship. A little bit French inspired (without the "Ladies Who Lunch" vibe), a little military, a little tyrolian, tailored (but not overly), with a hard to describe sensation of wearing something truly special. </p><p> </p><p>As always, I am so grateful for the support and inspiration I receive from the sewing community. I've sort of fallen off the blog bandwagon a bit, but I still have projects to share. Be well, and happy sewing! </p><p> </p><div style="text-align: right; font-size: small; clear: both;" id="blogsy_footer"><a href="http://blogsyapp.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://blogsyapp.com/images/blogsy_footer_icon.png" alt="Posted with Blogsy" style="vertical-align: middle; margin-right: 5px;" width="20" height="20" />Posted with Blogsy</a></div>Mainelydadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05718855427399616514noreply@blogger.com29tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7579381835650147304.post-67989665398365108172017-09-14T18:18:00.001-04:002017-09-14T18:29:23.300-04:00David's Bag<p> I had a good sized piece of faux fur left over from my backpack project of last year. </p><p> </p><p> And....I heard a very loud "I want one!" from this guy. </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/36384310014/in/set-72157685986109373" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4363/36384310014_c2b2e8a28f_c.jpg" id="blogsy-1505428152329.005" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><p> </p><p> This is my great friend David, the ultimate lumbersexual (if that's still a thing!). He lives in New York and he's always willing to tromp the garment district with me for hours on end, and then turn around and build a deck or shingle a dilapidated backyard shed. Trust me, there aren't many guys like that. I'm keeping him around! </p><p> </p><p>In his day to day life he works for the company that provides services for the hearing impaired on Broadway. It's a very stressful job, and he looks forward to Monday nights when most of the shows "are dark". (Look, I'm learning some theatre lingo!) Every other day usually finds him frantically running from theatre to theatre, putting out fires just before the curtain goes up. Employees don't show up, equipment fails, bus loads of senior citizens arrive and overwhelm the service, Snarky patrons are out of control and need to be placated. Things rarely go smoothly. A warning to tourists in Times Square....don't get in his way, he'll run you over! This man needs a bag that can multitask as much as he does. </p><p> </p><p>Plan. A messenger bag to hold his laptop, which can also become a large tote bag to schlep the various headsets and hand held devices between theatres. </p><p> </p><p>David loves buffalo plaid anything, so I set out looking for some wool fabric that would play nicely with the gray faux fur. My online search eventually lead to Etsy and a piece of ombré Harris Tweed. I like to think of it as buffalo plaid with a twist. <a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/EsplanadeLondonCloth">https://www.etsy.com/shop/EsplanadeLondonCloth</a>. </p><div class="separator" style="text-align: left; clear: both;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/31109725990/in/set-72157685986109373" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title=""><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5754/31109725990_35d7bc0a22.jpg" id="blogsy-1505428152320.158" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> </p><p> I think any bag maker will tell you that an arsenal of different interfacings makes for better bags. There are so many available, from stiff plastic-y ones, to ones that are thick and cushioned. </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/36823865590/in/set-72157685986109373" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title=""><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4396/36823865590_b67fecd9d1.jpg" id="blogsy-1505428152338.1045" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> </p><p> This is my new favorite! <a href="https://www.fashionsewingsupply.com/product_info.php?cPath=22&products_id=78&osCsid=553395f5c389d6f8602a6470f959a2de" target="_blank" title="">Medium weight Pro-Weft Supreme from Fashion Sewing Supply</a>. It's a soft brushed knit interfacing with some slight stretch in one direction. I used it to back all the Harris Tweed parts of David's bag. It's a dream to work with, and fuses at a lower setting than the interfacings I would use for a shirt. I save every little scrap of this stuff. It's that good! Since making this bag I've used it to interface welt pockets, bound buttonholes and pocket flaps. </p><p> </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/35714455812/in/set-72157685986109373" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4295/35714455812_1aece7bd0f_c.jpg" id="blogsy-1505428152291.8909" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><p> </p><p>I don't have very many progress pics of this bag. This is the recessed zipper opening for the top of the bag in process. It's a nice feature to have, especially when the stuff you're toting needs to be protected. I highly recommend this video <a href="https://youtu.be/R-CHW9EEd3k">https://youtu.be/R-CHW9EEd3k</a>. Like so many things in sewing, what looks complicated really isn't. What I love about this video is that everything ends up finished in the end. No ragged edges anywhere. Your bag will be as beautiful inside, as out. </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/30639591684/in/set-72157685986109373" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5706/30639591684_14e4cf9701.jpg" id="blogsy-1505428152354.054" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> </p><p> I lined the bag with quilting cottons from JoAnn's. There's a padded divider to hold David's laptop along the back of the bag. It has a zippererd pocket on the front side. Kyle, (my bag guru!) from <a href="https://www.instagram.com/vacuumingthelawn/" target="_blank" title="">Vacuuming the Lawn</a>, shared a great tutorial on how do do this. So I'm passing it along. <a href="http://emmalinebags.blogspot.com/2012/01/how-to-sew-zipper-pocket-tutorial.html">http://emmalinebags.blogspot.com/2012/01/how-to-sew-zipper-pocket-tutorial.html</a>. Again, what looks complicated really isn't. </p><p> </p><p>There are three small pockets along the front of the bag. I used some rivets as reinforcement along the top edge, mostly because I just love setting them! </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/31443651066/in/set-72157685986109373" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title=""><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5570/31443651066_825d35ae99.jpg" id="blogsy-1505428152315.012" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> </p><p> Here's the finished bag in "tote bag mode". </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/31480921485/in/set-72157685986109373" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5509/31480921485_604a50cb62.jpg" id="blogsy-1505428152328.5515" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> </p><p> And here in "messenger bag mode". </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/31334467562/in/set-72157685986109373" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5490/31334467562_e252f0e028.jpg" id="blogsy-1505428152310.1992" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/31480878165/in/set-72157685986109373" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5798/31480878165_2acce30586.jpg" id="blogsy-1505428152318.3152" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="500"></a></div><p> </p><p>The antique brass hardware for this project was from <a href="https://www.buckleguy.com/" target="_blank" title="">Buckle Guy</a> and <a href="https://emmalinebags.com/" target="_blank" title="">Emmaline Bags</a>. Both, excellent sources. </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/21610186010/in/set-72157685986109373" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/578/21610186010_4d57334d60.jpg" id="blogsy-1505428152320.4038" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="500"></a></div><p> </p><p>We're all smiles with our fur bags! Have YOU made one yet? </p><p> </p><div style="text-align: right; font-size: small; clear: both;" id="blogsy_footer"><a href="http://blogsyapp.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://blogsyapp.com/images/blogsy_footer_icon.png" alt="Posted with Blogsy" style="vertical-align: middle; margin-right: 5px;" width="20" height="20" />Posted with Blogsy</a></div>Mainelydadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05718855427399616514noreply@blogger.com20tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7579381835650147304.post-6296272603938658902017-08-31T09:56:00.001-04:002017-08-31T09:56:03.018-04:00Not dead -- yet! <p> My brother called a couple of weeks ago, worried that I might be dead. Apparently my niece mentioned that I hadn't posted anything in ages, and she was a little concerned. </p><p> </p><p>Contrary to opinion, I am alive! </p><p> What's been going on??? </p><p> I've been sewing like a madman, and blogging about it has fallen to the bottom of my "to do" list. I'm finally seeing the light at the end of the tunnel, and will share my exploits soon.<br></p><p> </p><p>In the meantime, here's a sample of what's gone down in my world. </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/31480950665/in/set-72157685986109373" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5598/31480950665_83540b3981.jpg" id="blogsy-1504186654331.5762" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/31109725990/in/set-72157685986109373" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5754/31109725990_35d7bc0a22.jpg" id="blogsy-1504186654328.146" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> </p><p>Because the world needs more fur bags. </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/36128438523/in/set-72157685949695683" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4437/36128438523_a20a2c217b_c.jpg" id="blogsy-1504186654395.792" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="666"></a></div><p> </p><p> And speaking of fur....This arrived from Scotland. </p><p> </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/36542163860/in/set-72157685949695683" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4383/36542163860_0fc2dbfdac_c.jpg" id="blogsy-1504186654352.1543" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><p> </p><p>To be augmented with some kilt bling. </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/35044081244/in/set-72157685949695683" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4242/35044081244_d3d3ebee3e.jpg" id="blogsy-1504186654355.2275" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="373"></a></div><p> </p><p> Pewter buttons arrived from a small business in Ohio. </p><p> </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/36928438845/in/set-72157677842752402" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4360/36928438845_6f2af48d81_c.jpg" id="blogsy-1504186654340.065" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><p> </p><p>I plowed through some "quasi couture" construction. Mon dieu! </p><p> </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/36757503712/in/set-72157685949695683" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4393/36757503712_5cddff1b8a_c.jpg" id="blogsy-1504186654381.1477" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><p> </p><p>I've done lots of pad stitching and basting. </p><p> </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/36788747121/in/set-72157685949695683" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4394/36788747121_db1917b335_c.jpg" id="blogsy-1504186654355.0173" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><p> </p><p>Even more pad stitching and basting! </p><p> </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/36928444275/in/set-72157685949695683" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4331/36928444275_7e800fdec2_c.jpg" id="blogsy-1504186654337.6663" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><p> </p><p>Weeks of tailoring and fittings via FaceTime. Seriously! </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/36788754641/in/set-72157685949695683" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4386/36788754641_35d2b42f90_c.jpg" id="blogsy-1504186654367.4333" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><p> </p><p> Topped off by kilt #2. </p><p> </p><p>Oh, and Agnes has come home to live in my driveway, refusing to get her feet wet! </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/36130424043/in/set-72157645347014632" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4357/36130424043_4fde57542b_c.jpg" id="blogsy-1504186654320.9553" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><p> </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/36938821585/in/set-72157645347014632" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4347/36938821585_aed729fc42_c.jpg" id="blogsy-1504186654383.5515" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><p> </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/36767837442/in/set-72157645347014632" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4358/36767837442_820a008410_c.jpg" id="blogsy-1504186654403.7515" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="713"></a></div><p> </p><p>I'm a little burned out and at the same time greatful for a life that years ago I never would have imagined. More about all these projects will be forthcoming at some point. Until then be well, and happy sewing. </p><div style="text-align: right; font-size: small; clear: both;" id="blogsy_footer"><a href="http://blogsyapp.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://blogsyapp.com/images/blogsy_footer_icon.png" alt="Posted with Blogsy" style="vertical-align: middle; margin-right: 5px;" width="20" height="20" />Posted with Blogsy</a></div>Mainelydadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05718855427399616514noreply@blogger.com16tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7579381835650147304.post-727985185380563622017-03-29T05:28:00.001-04:002017-03-30T07:17:04.463-04:00Kilt Update (long overdue) <p> I'm afraid this blog has really fallen by the wayside. The boat project has really taken over just about everything for the past few months. Because I don't have a barn or garage, I've been splitting the rent on an industrial space with an ex-coworker for over 4 years now. So there's a real economic incentive to be wrapping things up. Plus, my co-tenant is sending some subtle hints that he may want to emigrate and live an ex-pat life in Mexico! I'm trying not to panic, but it's feeling like crunch time. To speed things up I've turned a tiny bedroom in "this old house" into a painting and varnishing workshop. So, evenings when I would usually be working on a sewing project, I'm working on the boat instead. Trust me, this does not make me a happy camper. </p><p> </p><p>So where did I leave off?</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/32670184096/in/set-72157678700058525" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/765/32670184096_1805aec2d1.jpg" id="blogsy-1490872551481.7048" class="aligncenter" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><p> </p><p>Oh, yeah.....A heavy weight hair canvas arrived from B. Black and Sons. Strips were sewn to the top portion of the kilt using a heavy carpet / buttonhole thread. A tailor's or diagonal stitch is used, the trick being to catch only a single layer of the tartan underneath so that none of the stitches show through on the right side of the kilt. It's surprising how one can develop a "feel" for it, especially this far into the whole process. I found using a very short needle worked the best for me. </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/32588790031/in/set-72157678700058525" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/322/32588790031_6c682f9bee.jpg" id="blogsy-1490872551484.8276" class="aligncenter" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><p> </p><p>Pleats are formed in the canvas covering the pleated section of the kilt. This preserves the slight flair at the back. Nothing is really measured, it just intuitively happens as one is stitching along. </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/32331184570/in/set-72157678700058525" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/440/32331184570_f7ae5cb50c.jpg" id="blogsy-1490872551501.3433" class="aligncenter" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><p> </p><p> So here is the completed canvas all sewn into place. What looks very tedious was actually very soothing and relaxing to do. It went remarkably fast. It also helps that I enjoy handsewing. </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/32332051450/in/set-72157678700058525" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/699/32332051450_d8db2025fb.jpg" id="blogsy-1490872551512.3398" class="aligncenter" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><p> </p><p> The fringe at the edge of the upper apron is actually double thickness. I undid just a bit for this picture to show how a narrow fringed strip (maybe 1.5 inches wide) is sandwiched into the side seam. Offsetting the layers slightly gives a more full appearance. </p><p> </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/32864590714/in/set-72157678700058525" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title=""><img src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2922/32864590714_66c2826707.jpg" id="blogsy-1490872551495.115" class="aligncenter" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><p> </p><p> The only machine stitching on the kilt is the attachment of the narrow waistband (and even this can be handsewn if one wishes). The waistband will only match on the front apron of the kilt, and a walking foot would be a big help. I'm definitely going to look into getting one for my Magnolia. Even with basting, my matching isn't as perfect as it should be. Have I mentioned how obsessive this kiltmaking biz is??? </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/33707175005/in/set-72157678700058525" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3841/33707175005_83138bf4a4.jpg" id="blogsy-1490872551514.369" class="aligncenter" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/33322998820/in/set-72157678700058525" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2892/33322998820_ec1979acef.jpg" id="blogsy-1490872551491.848" class="aligncenter" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><p> </p><p> The buckles and leather straps are easily found online. These leather straps came all pre-punched, so sewing them on was a breeze. Making the tartan tabs for the buckles is a bit trickier, the goal being to make them as inconspicuous as possible. In the end the buckle tab gets covered by the leather strap, so go figure! Just more obsessive kiltmaking behavior. </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/33551012032/in/set-72157678700058525" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2936/33551012032_ef6b0f5782.jpg" id="blogsy-1490872551531.5657" class="aligncenter" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><p> </p><p> The home stretch! A cotton broadcloth lining is basted and then handsewn over the canvas. Once again small pleats are worked into the back to preserve the shaping of the kilt. </p><p> </p><p>Time to give it a good pressing and remove what seems like miles of white cotton basting thread. I'll try to model the completed kilt soon. Be well....and be sewing more than me! </p><p> </p><p> </p><div style="text-align: right; font-size: small; clear: both;" id="blogsy_footer"><a href="http://blogsyapp.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://blogsyapp.com/images/blogsy_footer_icon.png" alt="Posted with Blogsy" style="vertical-align: middle; margin-right: 5px;" width="20" height="20" />Posted with Blogsy</a></div>Mainelydadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05718855427399616514noreply@blogger.com12tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7579381835650147304.post-49331459328024313752017-02-04T22:10:00.001-05:002017-02-04T22:10:26.685-05:00The Couture Jacket for Men -- Oui ou Non?<p> I bet you love Peter's "Yay or Nay" posts as much as I do. <a href="http://malepatternboldness.blogspot.com/2012/05/matchy-matchy-style-yea-or-nay.html" target="_blank" title="">(Example for the uninitiated)</a></p><p> </p><p> Sheer shirts for men?, knickers?, dip dyed clothes? It's always fun to read all the responses his posts elicit from the sewing community. So..... while I wait for some kilt supplies to arrive from the west coast....</p><p> </p><p>The French Couture Jacket.....should men wear it? More importantly, should I? </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/31898017383/in/set-72157677842752402" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title=""><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/389/31898017383_751383044a.jpg" id="blogsy-1486264048290.5288" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="500"></a></div><p> </p><p> As you know my son is getting married this Fall. As the groom's parent, I'll be hosting a rehearsal dinner the evening before the wedding. "Save the date" announcements have already gone out, and the couple is requesting "casual dapper" dress for the dinner. So, the old man needs to get his dapper on! Which, of course, leads to....what to make. Which leads me to this....</p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/32557792152/in/set-72157677842752402" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title=""><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/603/32557792152_3446e38b60.jpg" id="blogsy-1486264048276.0288" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/32557779062/in/set-72157677842752402" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/320/32557779062_9d5156caa4.jpg" id="blogsy-1486264048281.851" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> </p><p> I have a little over 5 yards of a cranberry wool tweed, handwoven by my mom. I'm not really sure why she wove it. All I know is that she was petrified to cut it, so it just sat in a plastic bin for years. When she downsized to a nursing home, I was the only person interested in having it. So I brought it home and it's been on mothballs ever since. I'd love to make something special with it....and what's more "tweedy" than Chanel? </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/31867590344/in/set-72157677842752402" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title=""><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/472/31867590344_833b0211dd.jpg" id="blogsy-1486264048244.5938" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> </div><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/32669927746/in/set-72157677842752402" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/590/32669927746_55d01eb21e.jpg" id="blogsy-1486264048234.58" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/32330913690/in/set-72157677842752402" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title=""><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/650/32330913690_20fa57cc72_c.jpg" id="blogsy-1486264048288.8386" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><p> </p><p>So I've been collecting some of the bits to make a jacket over the past year. Ribbon, trim and buttons from <a href="http://www.mjtrim.com" target="_blank" title="">M&J Trimming</a> in NYC. The mohair trim with a multicolored ribbon woven through it appears to have been made for my mom's fabric. I think the only thing I need is some silk charmeuse for the lining. The fabric is quite heavy, so I need to keep things as light and unstructured as possible. </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/32557775182/in/set-72157677842752402" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title=""><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/544/32557775182_1f04c1bb69.jpg" id="blogsy-1486264048263.8735" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> </p><p>This pattern was an Etsy find. I do like the collared version. Very Tyrolean. I've never even opened the envelope, but looking at the photos it strikes me as boxy and a little oversized. Fitting it will no doubt be a chore. But what else is new!!?</p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/32557807092/in/set-72157677842752402" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title=""><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/497/32557807092_1b3e496115.jpg" id="blogsy-1486264048293.6423" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> </p><p>So... The men's Couture Jacket....</p><p> </p><p>Classic or Clownish? </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> </div><p> </p><div style="text-align: right; font-size: small; clear: both;" id="blogsy_footer"><a href="http://blogsyapp.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://blogsyapp.com/images/blogsy_footer_icon.png" alt="Posted with Blogsy" style="vertical-align: middle; margin-right: 5px;" width="20" height="20" />Posted with Blogsy</a></div>Mainelydadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05718855427399616514noreply@blogger.com43tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7579381835650147304.post-47340451111921307582017-01-24T19:33:00.001-05:002017-01-24T19:33:59.981-05:00Kilt update -- I'm steeking! <p> The next step is cutting out the excess fabric from behind the pleats. The book I'm using emphasizes that this is no place to screw up. One slip of the scissors is all it takes to make an unfixable mess. For me that means the most expensive wadder ever! </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/32335953576/in/set-72157678700058525" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/431/32335953576_a15ac46595.jpg" id="blogsy-1485304197492.7444" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> </p><p> Based on the way the pleats are formed, just a single layer of fabric is removed at a time. I used my trusty bandage scissors.</p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/32335952106/in/set-72157678700058525" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/698/32335952106_722795abeb.jpg" id="blogsy-1485304197431.5066" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/31532459644/in/set-72157678700058525" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title=""><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/460/31532459644_c5edd65893.jpg" id="blogsy-1485304197476.514" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/32468145846/in/set-72157678700058525" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/402/32468145846_055cfe763e.jpg" id="blogsy-1485304197461.028" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> </p><p>I ended up with a nice little stack of scraps. Some of these will be used as beltloops and buckle straps. The rest might end up as elbow patches some day. :). </p><p> </p><p>The tops of the pleats are secured in a process called steeking. Using a heavy carpet thread, a line of stitching is worked across the top of the pleats from the back of the kilt. This stabilizes the pleats and helps prevent the stitching from ripping out. </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/32383754381/in/set-72157678700058525" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/668/32383754381_e5d207a3d2.jpg" id="blogsy-1485304197466.4678" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> </p><p> It's hard to see the steeking because my thread is black. The trick here is to sew through as many layers as possible without going through the front of the kilt. Even if a single thread is caught on the outer layer of fabric a dimple will form. I ended up with 2 dimples, had to go back, rip out a few stitches and restitch. </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/32353643072/in/set-72157678700058525" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/445/32353643072_75e1f7904c.jpg" id="blogsy-1485304197426.7273" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> </p><p> Next, a waist stay is sewn in over the pleats. This is a selvedge strip of cotton broadcloth. Like the steeking, all the stitches are worked from the wrong side of the kilt. "X's" are worked in at every third pleat. Because it's at the edge of the kilt, it's much easier to keep flipping the work over to check for dimples or stitches that show. </p><p> </p><p>That's as far as I can go right now. The next step requires a heavy hair canvas which I can't find locally. B Black and Sons to the rescue! Once my order arrives I'll be back in business. In the meantime there's always a boat to build. </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/32509488965/in/set-72157645347014632" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/330/32509488965_de57803dbf.jpg" id="blogsy-1485304197436.4326" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="314"></a></div><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/32387462601/in/set-72157645347014632" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/695/32387462601_98ac8892ca_c.jpg" id="blogsy-1485304197411.3594" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><p> </p><p> </p><div style="text-align: right; font-size: small; clear: both;" id="blogsy_footer"><a href="http://blogsyapp.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://blogsyapp.com/images/blogsy_footer_icon.png" alt="Posted with Blogsy" style="vertical-align: middle; margin-right: 5px;" width="20" height="20" />Posted with Blogsy</a></div>Mainelydadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05718855427399616514noreply@blogger.com13tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7579381835650147304.post-80090080310767268892017-01-18T21:24:00.001-05:002017-01-18T21:33:17.446-05:00Pleat On! <p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/31524395004/in/set-72157678700058525" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/629/31524395004_8afe3c805b_z.jpg" id="blogsy-1484793143618.677" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="583"></a></div><p> </p><p>I think the scariest part about making a kilt is that it's just based on 3 measurements that someone else has taken. You have to give up every shred of control and place your faith in someone that you hope is taking the job seriously. That's hard for a control freak like me. I had my son, who has NO sewing experience whatsoever, measure me. Then, unbeknownst to him, I had my very OCD friend David do it. If you've got that kind of friend in your life I highly recommend it, purely for the peace of mind! In the end their measurements were almost identical. David gave me an extra 1/2" of length, and I'm taking it. I'd rather have a little extra length than end up with a plaid miniskirt. </p><p> </p><p>So that's it....no pattern, no muslin, no dry run. Three measurements. </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/31244107834/in/set-72157678700058525" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/562/31244107834_001575551d_c.jpg" id="blogsy-1484793143636.8108" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><p> </p><p> </p><p>The book I'm using is unapologetically traditional in its methods. Everything is marked with chalk. That might be fine for an experienced kilt maker, but I found myself handling my fabric so much that my marks were quickly wiped away. As a result I misplaced my first pleat! Not a great start. So I resorted to more reliable techniques. I remarked all the pleat spacing with Wonder Clips and triple checked myself. (Any mistake is almost unfixable). Then I popped in a tailor tack at each clip. No more lost chalk marks. I also thread traced the edges of the overlapping fronts (the "aprons" in kilt speak). </p><p> </p><p> You can see a few of the clips in the above picture. This is 5 yards of fabric that's perpetually sliding back and forth on the table.</p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/31936979902/in/set-72157678700058525" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/255/31936979902_a8e8ca8161.jpg" id="blogsy-1484793143624.458" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/31967494611/in/set-72157678700058525" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/623/31967494611_5113958fb4.jpg" id="blogsy-1484793143636.717" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/31532465094/in/set-72157678700058525" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/325/31532465094_5d5612bb7c.jpg" id="blogsy-1484793143617.0857" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> </p><p> </p><p> My kilt will have 22 pleats across the back. The set of three black blocks is centered on the front of the kilt, so it should also be centered on the back. That took a bit of trial and error but I eventually got there. Each pleat is 1" at the hip (the "fell" in kilt speak) and tapers to 7/8" at the waist. The amount of taper is determined by the difference between the hip and waist measurement. Mine is minimal since I have a flat buttock and the waist is measured 2" above a person's natural waist. </p><p> </p><p>I'm sorry I don't have more detailed photos of the pleating process. There's a certain rhythm to the sequence. In short, the next pleat has to be formed and held in place before stitching the pleat one's currently working on. This is all to be accomplished by pinching the pleats with the left hand and stretching the fabric over one's thigh. With the fabric stretched the pleat is hand sewn with small invisible edge stitches. Somehow everything is supposed to end up perfectly straight and aligned. IN MY DREAMS! </p><p> </p><p>I quickly realized that I would have to make a hundred kilts before I could master this technique. Anyone who's followed this blog knows that I'm a baste-o-holic, so I posed a question about basting on "X Marks the Scot". Stand back! This set off a small firestorm between the traditionalists and the more modern kiltmakers. After the dust settled I pretty much ignored all their advice and proceeded to baste all my pleats. In the end it's all about what works, right? </p><p> </p><p>Even with all my basting, sewing the pleats accurately was no small feat. The horizontal red stripe was particularly difficult to keep aligned. There's definitely a knack to it. Maybe on my hundredth pleat I might have it down. Sometimes you just have to say it's "good enough for a first kilt". </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/32085473942/in/set-72157678700058525" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/718/32085473942_804d4b5082_c.jpg" id="blogsy-1484793143692.0632" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><p> </p><p> So here is the completed back, pleated to the sett, with all the pleats basted into place. A good place to take a break and read up on the next step. </p><p> </p><div style="text-align: right; font-size: small; clear: both;" id="blogsy_footer"><a href="http://blogsyapp.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://blogsyapp.com/images/blogsy_footer_icon.png" alt="Posted with Blogsy" style="vertical-align: middle; margin-right: 5px;" width="20" height="20" />Posted with Blogsy</a></div>Mainelydadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05718855427399616514noreply@blogger.com15tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7579381835650147304.post-39458068057588610632017-01-11T17:37:00.001-05:002017-01-11T17:37:05.012-05:00Kilt -- Baby Steps <p> So I've officially taken the plunge. </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/31267572634/in/set-72157678700058525" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title=""><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/447/31267572634_8d7c38120b_c.jpg" id="blogsy-1484171219393.5378" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><p> </p><p> This will be my guide. I think it's safe to say that this book is considered the bible of kiltmaking. It's a little on the daunting side. The book opens with a series of color plates showing "good kilt" next to "bad kilt". Good kilt length / bad kilt, too short . Good stitching, invisible / bad kilt, stitches too large. Good kilt, stripes straight / bad kilt, stripes wandering. It's hard not to feel defeated before even starting! This lady sets the bar high. </p><p>In addition to this book I've also joined an online forum called "X Marks the Scot". Barbara Tewksbury, author of the book, actively participates in the forum. I've already posted several questions and she has chimed in on all of them, sometimes at great length. I've appreciated both her expertise and willingness to explain things in a supportive way. That doesn't always happen in online forums, where some members love nothing more than to pontificate on and on, and never answer the question. </p><p> </p><p>But, I'm getting ahead of myself. </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/31967832191/in/set-72157678700058525" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/610/31967832191_3ea719deaf_c.jpg" id="blogsy-1484171219384.8328" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><p> </p><p> I spent days playing around with possible pleating styles. Yes, days! Without going too deep into the weeds, there are two types of pleating. Pleating "to the stripe" (also called military pleating), and pleating "to the sett" (in which the tartan is reproduced in the pleats). In military pleating the same stripe is centered in the pleats worked across the back of the kilt. My tartan is one of the more simple weaves, made up of only 3 colors. There are really only two possibilities for pleating to the stripe IMO. The yellow stripe centered between the black squares, and the red stripe through the yellow. I sort of approximated them in the photo above. </p><p> </p><p>In the end I rejected both of them. Pleating to the yellow stripe created a very somber, to my eye "muddy", look. It took on almost a greenish cast.</p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/31710222360/in/set-72157678700058525" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title=""><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/514/31710222360_d37e6a69b4_c.jpg" id="blogsy-1484171219465.3496" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><p> </p><p>However, it would have produced bright flashes of color when the pleats moved. Lots of drama, but a little too risky for a first (and most likely the only) kilt I will ever make for myself. </p><p> </p><p>Pleating to the red stripe created a very golden yellow kilt. Pretty, but would I love it forever? These are the kinds of quandaries that can keep a man up at night, especially considering the cost of the materials and the amount of labor involved. </p><p> </p><p>In the end I decided that pleating to the sett was the way to go. The pleats in the back will reproduce the tartan, giving the kilt the same appearance all the way around. In other words, I'm taking the safe route. </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/31244414484/in/set-72157678700058525" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/527/31244414484_47841e35f1.jpg" id="blogsy-1484171219404.1519" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="373"></a></div><p> </p><p> Here I've broken the weave down into the sections that will become the pleats. Each pleat will be 1" wide with a stripe or color border centered in each pleat. </p><p> </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/31967783361/in/set-72157678700058525" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title=""><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/339/31967783361_6c6428fa49.jpg" id="blogsy-1484171219449.9797" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="373"></a></div><p> </p><p>Here I've pinned the pleats into place. The sett of my tartan is actually quite small. Each total repeat of the plaid is only 5". Why does this matter? It makes the depth of each pleat quite shallow. That would be fine if I had a limited amount of fabric to work with, but I have "the whole nine yards!" I definitely don't want a skimpy kilt, so I've decided that each pleat will encorporate two whole repeats of the tartan. Yet another decision that kept me awake at night! </p><p> </p><p>Days of deliberation and not one stitch made! Next time I hope to have made some real progress. </p><div style="text-align: right; font-size: small; clear: both;" id="blogsy_footer"><a href="http://blogsyapp.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://blogsyapp.com/images/blogsy_footer_icon.png" alt="Posted with Blogsy" style="vertical-align: middle; margin-right: 5px;" width="20" height="20" />Posted with Blogsy</a></div>Mainelydadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05718855427399616514noreply@blogger.com20tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7579381835650147304.post-4034898851864960472017-01-03T22:46:00.001-05:002017-01-03T22:46:26.357-05:00Sewing Bigly in 2017! <p> Sorry, I couldn't resist. Clearly, we're sailing into uncharted waters as a nation, but my goals for the coming year are crystal clear. </p><p> </p><p>My son will be getting married in October, and get this.....he's asked the old man to make him a kilt! I am deeply touched and honored beyond belief, but at the same time scared to death. Maybe you remember that this has been on my sewing bucket list for about 3 years now. </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/19711938309/in/set-72157678700058525" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/484/19711938309_0a642b0ea5.jpg" id="blogsy-1483500724845.377" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/19891081852/in/set-72157678700058525" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3735/19891081852_0dae08473c.jpg" id="blogsy-1483500724907.8022" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> </p><p> </p><p>Here I was picking up my tartan, the "Loud MacLeod", with my mom at Scotland by the Yard in Quechee, Vermont. It's been on mothballs ever since! My plan is to make myself a kilt first, (read: make all the mistakes on mine), then tackle his. </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/31936984792/in/set-72157678700058525" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/281/31936984792_35572e6850.jpg" id="blogsy-1483500724848.6663" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> </p><p> I have this Folkwear pattern, but won't be using it for the kilt. There is, in fact, no "pattern" for a kilt. A kilt is totally made based on the wearer's measurements and the amount and sett (repeat) of the tartan. It's a little overwhelming. I will use the pattern for the Prince Charlie jacket and vest. </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/32046298616/in/set-72157678700058525" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/682/32046298616_7f3a8482ba.jpg" id="blogsy-1483500724812.7131" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> </p><p> So here's to the New Year! My year of SWAP, sewing with a purpose. </p><p> </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/31275072613/in/set-72157678700058525" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5614/31275072613_c19f916f2f.jpg" id="blogsy-1483500724844.5266" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> My goal.....</p><p> </p><p>Two 8 yard kilts</p><p>Two Prince Charlie (or maybe Argyle) jackets</p><p>Two vests </p><p>A Glengarry cap for me</p><p> </p><p>Oh, and something snazzy to wear for the rehearsal dinner I'm hosting. Time to roll out the tartan! </p><p> </p><p>I also promise to never utter the word "bigly" again! </p><p> </p><div style="text-align: right; font-size: small; clear: both;" id="blogsy_footer"><a href="http://blogsyapp.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://blogsyapp.com/images/blogsy_footer_icon.png" alt="Posted with Blogsy" style="vertical-align: middle; margin-right: 5px;" width="20" height="20" />Posted with Blogsy</a></div>Mainelydadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05718855427399616514noreply@blogger.com13tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7579381835650147304.post-75412986999257263252016-11-30T15:48:00.001-05:002016-11-30T15:48:21.469-05:00Repairs Completed or..... Rip, Sew, Scream, Rip, Repeat. <p> OK. This exercise is completed, and it's been a journey for sure. At one point I was screaming louder than the collective scream heard from coast to coast a few weeks ago. My strategy was to take a break, go to yoga class, breath and then calmly return to the whole mess. </p><p> </p><p>Yes, it got messy! The shirt in particular. But first up...the safari jacket. </p><p> </p><p> </p><p>This was the easier of the two repairs. I opened up a slit in the lining's side seam just big enough to put my hand through (I didn't want to mess with the armhole). Then it was easy to reach up inside and pull the sleeve head down and out. And what to my wondering eyes did appear?</p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/31226951056/in/set-72157672162923584" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5582/31226951056_8332c946a0.jpg" id="blogsy-1480537496264.3184" class="aligncenter" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/30441658774/in/set-72157672162923584" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5802/30441658774_78c5acccb4.jpg" id="blogsy-1480537496268.4355" class="aligncenter" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><p> </p><p>Why, a sleeve head and seam allowance clips everywhere! All part of my failed attempts to improve the set of the sleeves way back when. </p><p> </p><p>This time around I reduced the height of the sleeve cap by 5/8" at the apex, and then graded the curve down to the front and back notches. This greatly reduced the amount of easing required. </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/31119127252/in/set-72157672162923584" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5558/31119127252_af949d4909.jpg" id="blogsy-1480537496295.2458" class="aligncenter" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><p> </p><p> After sewing the new seam, I stitched in a new wool sleeve head over the top of the sleeve. This technique is from The Bishop Method of Sewing Construction, by Edna Bishop. A bias cut strip of wool 1 1/2" wide is lined up with the edge of the seam allowances, and then hand sewn in close to the seam. It sounds more difficult than it is. When the sleeve is turned rightside out the strip will fold over on itself and fill out the top of the sleeve. That's the theory anyway. </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/30895305010/in/set-72157672162923584" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title=""><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5447/30895305010_78312cc1fd.jpg" id="blogsy-1480537496234.7542" class="aligncenter" width="500" height="500" alt=""></a></div><p> </p><p>And here's how it turned out. It's not perfect by any stretch of the imagination, but still a big improvement. If it weren't for the Lycra in the fabric, any little dimples could have been steamed out. Alas, they just spring right back. Still, this repair is a win in my book. The safari jacket is back in rotation! (And I will continue my resolve to NEVER buy stretch fabrics again!). </p><p> </p><p> On to the shirt.....</p><p> </p><p> Picking apart a shirt is an exercise in patience and perseverance, especially when it's sewn with about 20 stitches per inch. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/31148379241/in/set-72157672162923584" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title=""><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5739/31148379241_74c7e85105.jpg" id="blogsy-1480537496247.5332" class="aligncenter" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><p> </p><p>After what seemed like hours, I had a pile of abandoned parts. Cuffs, collar, stand, interfacing and the entire left front placket. From there, things actually progressed quickly. I had more than enough fabric to remake the replacement parts which I interfaced with Shirt Crisp interfacing from Fashion Sewing Supply. Everything was assembled and wouldn't you know, my old Singer 301 refused to make a buttonhole. Ugh! </p><p> </p><p>I pulled out the Janome Magnolia, my backup machine, and figured out how its buttonhole attachment works. I had never used it before. My practice buttonholes were coming out perfectly. I bet I made at least 10. Everything was working flawlessly. The buttonholes on the placket and cuffs came out perfectly. I was cruising towards the finish line. And then....I had to make the small buttonholes on the collar.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/31148364271/in/set-72157672162923584" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5633/31148364271_6d7dfe6710_c.jpg" id="blogsy-1480537496299.723" class="aligncenter" width="500" height="667" alt=""></a></div><p> </p><p> Wouldn't you know. The F'ing contraption just took off on its own and decided to make a huge butttonhole. To make matters worse I had set the machine for its most dense stitch. Needless to say there were some choice words said. By the time I picked it out, the fabric was pretty well shredded. In fact there was actually a hole on the undercollar. </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/31119078662/in/set-72157672162923584" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5793/31119078662_d4b76c3207.jpg" id="blogsy-1480537496258.0562" class="aligncenter" width="500" height="467" alt=""></a></div><p> </p><p>In another act of brilliance, I though a dab of Fray Check might help. Wrong! It bled through to the upper collar and left a stain. At this point a <span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">cooling off period was in order, so I </span>put the whole mess aside for at least a week. </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/30441670144/in/set-72157672162923584" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title=""><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5803/30441670144_e3ab383d27.jpg" id="blogsy-1480537496318.3848" class="aligncenter" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><p> </p><p>I had just enough fabric to make another collar, so I ripped the whole thing out again and started over. This time around the buttonhole gizmo worked perfectly, but I still held my breath through the whole operation. So what did I end up with other than frazzled nerves....? </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/30441643224/in/set-72157672162923584" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title=""><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5689/30441643224_a1ef89b3e2.jpg" id="blogsy-1480537496313.1003" class="aligncenter" width="500" height="500" alt=""></a></div><p> </p><p>A shirt that will actually get worn. I made a few stylistic changes this time around. The placket and collar are cut on the cross grain, I added a buttoned pocket, and swapped out the light colored buttons for something darker. The shirt will always have its flaws (I've learned a lot about shirtmaking since I made this), but overall it fits in better with my wardrobe, and I no longer feel guilty about the clothes that I never wear. </p><p> </p><p>What's next? Some "secret sewing", and then a fresh project. Wishing you all happy sewing! </p><p> </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="text-align: left; clear: both;"> </div><p> </p><div style="text-align: right; font-size: small; clear: both;" id="blogsy_footer"><a href="http://blogsyapp.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://blogsyapp.com/images/blogsy_footer_icon.png" alt="Posted with Blogsy" style="vertical-align: middle; margin-right: 5px;" width="20" height="20" />Posted with Blogsy</a></div>Mainelydadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05718855427399616514noreply@blogger.com13tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7579381835650147304.post-45523022349834621422016-10-26T18:30:00.001-04:002016-10-26T18:30:05.579-04:00The Troubling Ethics of Clothes That I Never Wear<p> Maybe you caught this little post from <a href="http://sewingontheedge.blogspot.com" target="_blank" title="">Sewing on The Edge</a> which linked to an article about a minimalist / capsule wardrobe? While my wardrobe is hardly minimalist, I do try to make clothes that I want to wear. Still, there are clothes that I've sewn that, for one reason or another, I NEVER wear. </p><p> </p><p>There's something vaguely unsettling about this. I don't regret the time and effort involved in making these clothes; but to never wear them seems a waste of resources. To remedy this situation I'm going to undertake "rescuing" two items that never see the light of day. </p><p> </p><p>First up.... </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/30470119822/in/set-72157672162923584" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5834/30470119822_d8b3eb7989_z.jpg" id="blogsy-1477520818053.3394" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="600"></a></div><p> </p><p style="text-align: center;"> My safari jacket.</p><p style="text-align: center;"> </p><p> I should be wearing the hell out of this jacket right now, but I cringe every time I see the horrible set of the sleeves. This mess is the collision of two problems....one, too much sleeve ease...and two, a stretch fabric that doesn't allow the extra ease to be steamed out. Note: this project made me swear off stretch fabrics forever. I've replaced this jacket with my wool Halston shacket, but I truly miss wearing it, especially this time of year. </p><p> </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/30287610170/in/set-72157672162923584" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5811/30287610170_3aa7f8d607_c.jpg" id="blogsy-1477520818048.7666" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><p> </p><p>This jacket was both a ton of work, and a joy to make. To have it languishing in the closet because I'm too embarrassed to wear it is a shame. My plan is to open the side linings and pull the sleeve through, shorten the sleeve cap and put things back together. I may even put in a little wool sleeve head to give the shoulders more structure. Here's hoping! </p><p> </p><p>Next problem child...</p><p> </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/29953333673/in/set-72157672162923584" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5525/29953333673_5b2580c6f3_c.jpg" id="blogsy-1477520818101.0032" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="666"></a></div><p> </p><p style="text-align: center;">The first shirt I ever made!</p><p style="text-align: center;"> </p><p style="text-align: left;">I made this shirt when Peter had his Shirt Sewalong (I think he was making the Negroni?). I think I've worn it once, which is a shame because it's a fine Italian cotton in a great color for me. Sadly, it has some issues. Some I can fix, others I'll just have to live with. </p><p style="text-align: left;"> </p><p style="text-align: left;">The biggest problem is lack of decent interfacing. It's just interfaced with white cotton fabric with little to no body. Since making this shirt I've learned just how important good interfacing is to a shirt. Hence, my addiction to <a href="https://www.fashionsewingsupply.com/product_info.php?cPath=22&products_id=76&osCsid=cbeb84d889747b603aba29cbd682da54" target="_blank" title="">Fashion Sewing Supply's "shirt crisp" interfacing.</a> For me it's the difference between a shirt that gets worn, and one that's relegated to the back of the closet. </p><p style="text-align: left;"> </p><p style="text-align: left;">Next problem, the full French cuffs. Fun and novel as they are, they're just not me. They've gotta go. </p><p style="text-align: left;"> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/30550555766/in/set-72157672162923584" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8594/30550555766_c62b5c307e.jpg" id="blogsy-1477520818132.2393" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p style="text-align: left;"> </p><p> </p><p>Ummm...this was the best I could do at the time. Reality check, I still can't sew a curve worth a damn, so I'll replace the whole collar and stand (God willing). This time around it will be a button down, which is much more my style (and NO curves involved!). With a little love, I'm hoping to get this sad shirt back into the game. </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/29955121994/in/set-72157672162923584" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5331/29955121994_daabae0d05_c.jpg" id="blogsy-1477520818112.7896" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><p> </p><p>Thankfully, I saved a good sized hunk of this fabric. Vindication for all us sewists who save all our scraps, and sometimes scratch our heads wondering why we do it! </p><p>Time to break out the seam ripper. </p><p> </p><div style="text-align: right; font-size: small; clear: both;" id="blogsy_footer"><a href="http://blogsyapp.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://blogsyapp.com/images/blogsy_footer_icon.png" alt="Posted with Blogsy" style="vertical-align: middle; margin-right: 5px;" width="20" height="20" />Posted with Blogsy</a></div>Mainelydadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05718855427399616514noreply@blogger.com16tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7579381835650147304.post-1261109060838114432016-10-06T20:36:00.001-04:002016-10-06T20:36:22.018-04:00The Fur Backpack -- It's a Wrap<p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/29860398020/in/set-72157669867626544" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title=""><img src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8550/29860398020_f5faf2399d_c.jpg" id="blogsy-1475799743936.5933" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><p> </p><p style="text-align: center;"> Fall, Folliage and FUR! </p><p style="text-align: center;"> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/29860653840/in/set-72157669867626544" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8274/29860653840_36684a46f4_c.jpg" id="blogsy-1475799743962.3298" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><p style="text-align: left;"> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/29527344143/in/set-72157669867626544" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title=""><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5456/29527344143_a2aa4c488b_c.jpg" id="blogsy-1475799743995.7288" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><p> </p><p>It's finally done, my Michael Kors knockoff fur backpack. There's not a whole lot to say, other than I'm totally loving how it turned out. Perhaps the best part of the project was how much FUN I had working on a non-apparel project. It was really refreshing, and I'm already collecting materials for my next bag! (This one has to stay a secret). </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/30121171616/in/set-72157669867626544" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title=""><img src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8129/30121171616_a5ca88f63a_c.jpg" id="blogsy-1475799744003.9136" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><p> </p><p> To recap, this is essentially the <a href="https://swoonpatterns.com/shop/lucy-backpack/" target="_blank" title="">Lucy Backpack from Swoon Patterns</a>, enlarged an inch in each direction; otherwise it looked a little too childish. I left out some details that I didn't like (or were never going to work with my materials), and personalized the interior to suit my needs. </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/29527564963/in/set-72157669867626544" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8411/29527564963_3029a22369.jpg" id="blogsy-1475799743964.108" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="500"></a></div><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/29861544630/in/set-72157669867626544" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5736/29861544630_c61031de65.jpg" id="blogsy-1475799743970.5662" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="500"></a></div><p> </p><p>I love a little "bag bling", so a big shout out to Lauren's Creations. If you're a steampunk lover, check out her Etsy shop <a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/theoldmillshoppe" target="_blank" title="">here</a>. </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/30157565955/in/set-72157669867626544" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8420/30157565955_663d3ccc40.jpg" id="blogsy-1475799743998.6665" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> </p><p> And while I'm shouting out......thanks to my beautiful daughter and equally beautiful son's fiancé for helping with the photo shoot. Without you, I would have been back in my yard with the tripod, setting the timer, running in front of the camera and hoping for the best. It was so much fun doing this with you! </p><p> </p><p>(Apple picking, Rocky Ridge Orchard, Bowdoin, ME) </p><p> </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/29528958513/in/set-72157669867626544" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5823/29528958513_1f5e2010ab_c.jpg" id="blogsy-1475799744029.9744" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/30072234111/in/set-72157669867626544" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8419/30072234111_381535b2aa_c.jpg" id="blogsy-1475799743974.2825" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><p> </p><p>Photo location -- Derecktor / Robinhood Marina, Georgetown, ME </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/30042968452/in/set-72157669867626544" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title=""><img src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8403/30042968452_a3c0d266c7_c.jpg" id="blogsy-1475799744014.4229" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><p> </p><p style="text-align: left;">So it's a wrap! Time to head home and start a new project. </p><p style="text-align: left;"> </p><p style="text-align: left;"> As always, thanks for all the support and encouragement I get from the sewing community. Be well! </p><p> </p><div style="text-align: right; font-size: small; clear: both;" id="blogsy_footer"><a href="http://blogsyapp.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://blogsyapp.com/images/blogsy_footer_icon.png" alt="Posted with Blogsy" style="vertical-align: middle; margin-right: 5px;" width="20" height="20" />Posted with Blogsy</a></div>Mainelydadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05718855427399616514noreply@blogger.com26tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7579381835650147304.post-8306233033712034222016-09-26T17:44:00.001-04:002016-10-02T07:21:04.726-04:00Pantone, Progress and Problems <p> Clearly the Pantone prognosticators were watching me last March at the MPB Winter Frolic! Were they hiding behind the rolls of faux fur at NY Elegant? Did they watch me pick out this fur, knowing that I'm always way ahead of the fashion curve? </p><p> </p><p style="text-align: center;">I picked this..... </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/29704291442/in/set-72157669867626544" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title=""><img src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8348/29704291442_74fdaf533a_c.jpg" id="blogsy-1475407227177.0703" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><p style="text-align: center;"> </p><p style="text-align: center;"> Low <span style="text-align: center;">and behold.....what do they pick for this Fall's color trends???</span></p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/29665681842/in/set-72157669867626544" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8021/29665681842_4c13cdbb08.jpg" id="blogsy-1475407227184.224" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="500"></a><span style="text-align: left;"><br></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;"> Potter's Clay and Sharkskin!</span><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;"><br></span></div><p> </p><p> Of course, I'm being silly here. But I do find it amusing that my current project fits in with their color predictions. Truthfully, I would never have known about their color selections if Peter, over at Male Pattern Boldness, hadn't just finished a great <a href="http://malepatternboldness.blogspot.com/2016/09/you-say-tomato-i-say-cranberry-what.html" target="_blank" title="">work jacket in Aurora Red</a>. Or is it Cranberry? Maybe Tomato?</p><p> </p><p> In the end, who really cares? Certainly not me.</p><p> </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/29189892374/in/set-72157669867626544" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title=""><img src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8300/29189892374_48225494d8.jpg" id="blogsy-1475407227154.2954" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> </p><p> </p><p> I completed the lining, which includes the scavenged swivel clip for my car keys. </p><p> </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/29817597245/in/set-72157669867626544" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8546/29817597245_bb34f895a8.jpg" id="blogsy-1475407227182.494" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> </p><p> </p><p> I took my readers' advice and added a handle. It's not visible here, but the folded ultrasuede is held together with Wonder Tape (another gift from <a href="http://vacuumingthelawn.blogspot.com/2016/07/my-first-leather-bag-from-handmade-chic.html" target="_blank" title="">Kyle over at Vacuuming the Lawn</a>). It's " secret weapon #2". It made the assembly so much easier. I added a couple of rivets for added reinforcement (plus, I just love using them). </p><p> </p><p>The Janome had no difficulty sewing through all the layers here, which are considerable! </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/29524523200/in/set-72157669867626544" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title=""><img src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8399/29524523200_93937a2eb4.jpg" id="blogsy-1475407227148.3928" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> </p><p> </p><p style="text-align: left;"> The drawstring is also attached with rivets. It's actually easier than the directions, which say to sew through all layers along the stitching line of the drawstring. </p><p> </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/29196004303/in/set-72157669867626544" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8363/29196004303_24fe7c7078.jpg" id="blogsy-1475407227162.5342" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="500"></a></div><p> </p><p> </p><p><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">The upper band of ultrasuede is interfaced with a midweight fusible Pelon product that I picked up at JoAnn's. I have to say that I've been spoiled by the interfacings from Fashion Sewing Supply. However, the ones I had on hand all fuse at high temps, and I was worried about melting the faux suede. JoAnn's was the expedient choice, but it's hard not to feel that I paid a price "performance wise" with what I purchased there. When I make my next bag (I'm sure there'll be another) I'll take the time to order in some better products.</span><br></p><p><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br></span></p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/29704287472/in/set-72157669867626544" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title=""><img src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8391/29704287472_07d1521651.jpg" id="blogsy-1475407227240.7825" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> </p><p> </p><p>Setting the grommets was much easier than I had imagined. I bought this set on Etsy. Basically... Punch hole, insert the hardware, place on base and pound with a hammer. Tout fini! </p><p> </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/29734855581/in/set-72157669867626544" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8493/29734855581_f9fb3fa6bb.jpg" id="blogsy-1475407227242.4216" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> </p><p> </p><p> I took my new backpack on a test drive this afternoon. I had a service appointment for my car which would take about 1 hour. I packed my iPad, Kindle and ear phones into their appropriate slots and headed out. A pretty significant problem became immediately noticeable. </p><p> </p><p>Because the lining is only attached at the very top edge of the bag, the weight of items in the pockets allows them to shift around, mostly front to back. When than happens the top of the pack gets pulled down. It gives the impression that the backpack is collapsing in on itself. Not a good look! </p><p> </p><p>Upon returning home I went to work correcting the problem. I secured the lining to the back panel of the exterior bag with four rivets. Not the easiest thing to do with the bag all assembled, but where there's a will there's a way. No more shifting lining, (and it looks good too!).</p><p> </p><p> </p><p>Next time....the completed backpack. Here's a little tease. </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/29214534413/in/set-72157669867626544" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8209/29214534413_8906674509_c.jpg" id="blogsy-1475407227151.2983" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><div style="text-align: right; font-size: small; clear: both;" id="blogsy_footer"><a href="http://blogsyapp.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://blogsyapp.com/images/blogsy_footer_icon.png" alt="Posted with Blogsy" style="vertical-align: middle; margin-right: 5px;" width="20" height="20" />Posted with Blogsy</a></div>Mainelydadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05718855427399616514noreply@blogger.com12tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7579381835650147304.post-84353278080850083232016-09-17T19:58:00.001-04:002016-09-17T19:58:28.215-04:00Backpack progress and.... Saying hello to Magnolia<p> My Singer 301 came back from the repair man cleaned up, but still very temperamental about sewing the ultrasuede. I think part of the problem was the jeans needle I was using. I believe that a ball point needle is required. But even with a new needle it was unpredictable at best. Sometimes it worked, other times it would skip an occasional stitch, and at times it didn't stitch at all. There was no figuring it out. Considering the expense of the fabrics involved, and to preserve my sanity, I moved on to Plan B. </p><p> </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/29636562312/in/set-72157669867626544" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8463/29636562312_05f7375680.jpg" id="blogsy-1474156366752.0488" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> </p><p> </p><p> Say hello to Magnolia. This machine has been sitting in my attic for a couple of years now. It belonged to my mom, who rarely used it. It was way too complicated for her, so she sent it in my direction. I honestly never felt the need to use it, so off to the attic it went. </p><p> </p><p>Long story short, it took to the ultrasuede like a duck to water. Underneath all that white plastic it's amazingly powerful, and it truly rescued this entire project. Thanks, Mom!! </p><p> </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/29121215634/in/set-72157669867626544" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title=""><img src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8157/29121215634_a107f2300f.jpg" id="blogsy-1474156366718.4653" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="500"></a></div><p> </p><p> </p><p> Speaking of rescues..... Wonder Clips!!! They made assembling the lining a snap. Thank you Kyle for sharing your bag making "secret weapon". </p><p> </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/29123369753/in/set-72157669867626544" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title=""><img src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8084/29123369753_fe72647094.jpg" id="blogsy-1474156366771.4412" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> </p><p> </p><p>Working with the faux fur was surprisingly easy. Just the tip of the scissors are used. Slide them just under the backing fabric and snip maybe a 1/4" at a time. It's slow going, but the pile is preserved. After cutting, any loose fibers can be pulled away from the edges with your fingers. It's not anywhere near as messy as I feared it would be. </p><p> </p><p> <span style="text-align: center;"> </span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/29748167355/in/set-72157669867626544" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8140/29748167355_7d839cde4a.jpg" id="blogsy-1474156366726.9187" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> </p><p> </p><p>Wonder clips to the rescue again. Here a strip of ultrasuede is sewed to the fur. The pile of the fur is poked down into the seam allowance. Easy. </p><p> </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/29456593600/in/set-72157669867626544" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8115/29456593600_438f0969b3.jpg" id="blogsy-1474156366705.4656" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="500"></a></div><p> </p><p> </p><p> This is the suede flap, which is lined with a gray cotton quilting fabric interfaced with both a fusible and sew in interfacing. Two layers were required to obtain the body I wanted. Magnolia had no difficulty topstitching the assembled flap. (Even more Wonder Clips). </p><p> </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/29712853086/in/set-72157669867626544" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8380/29712853086_6deee86b4f.jpg" id="blogsy-1474156366714.692" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="500"></a></div><p> </p><p> </p><p> Slipping the lining into the fur section I can start to dream about the finished backpack. Still lots more to do though! Straps, a handle and grommets (which I've never done before). </p><p> </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/29123198104/in/set-72157645347014632" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8083/29123198104_ce4bf71030.jpg" id="blogsy-1474156366758.9749" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="500"></a></div><p> </p><p>The same goes for the boat. This is a pattern for the seats, set in place so I can dream about them. The mahogany boards for them should be delivered this week. Clearly the backpack will be done WAY before the boat! </p><p> </p><p>I hope your projects, whatever they may be, are going well. </p><p> </p><div style="text-align: right; font-size: small; clear: both;" id="blogsy_footer"><a href="http://blogsyapp.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://blogsyapp.com/images/blogsy_footer_icon.png" alt="Posted with Blogsy" style="vertical-align: middle; margin-right: 5px;" width="20" height="20" />Posted with Blogsy</a></div>Mainelydadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05718855427399616514noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7579381835650147304.post-73579319940616176232016-09-05T09:11:00.001-04:002016-09-05T09:35:42.861-04:00Rethinking my hardware choices, and launching into it. <p> I cut out some of the ultrasuede backpack pieces and did some test stitching on the scraps, only to find out that my trusty Singer 301 decided not make a single stitch. Arghhhh! It refused to pick up the bobbin thread, so it was essentially just sewing into thin air. I fiddled with the tension, cleaned out all the fuzz, gave it a good oiling, changed to a different needle, but nothing seemed to work. So...off it went to my sewing machine guru Mr. Klaus Heimann in Newcastle, Maine for some TLC. </p><p> </p><p>While I was at a standstill I began to question some of my choices for this project. The only gray webbing I was able to find is on the narrow side, and the finishes on the hardware don't match. With time on my hands I decided to order some new components on-line. So here are the results. </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/29158633260/in/set-72157669867626544" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8161/29158633260_3b88b1e4fd.jpg" id="blogsy-1473082495250.8743" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> </p><p> The new webbing is 1.5" wide, charcoal polyester from <a href="http://www.strapworks.com/default.asp" target="_blank" title="">Strapworks.com</a>. It's much more substantial that what I originally bought. It came in just a few days from Oregon. </p><p> </p><p> The new hardware is solid brass with a matte nickel finish from <a href="https://www.buckleguy.com/?gclid=CJXA16ik-M4CFRFahgodG5cPiQ" target="_blank" title="">Buckleguy.com</a>. Infinitely better than what I had originally purchased, and it matches. This is substantial hardware, identical in weight to what's on a Fossil messenger bag that I own. Mr. Buckle guy is in Massachusetts, so this was in my mailbox the next day. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/29158639410/in/set-72157669867626544" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8454/29158639410_730766cfbd.jpg" id="blogsy-1473082495236.107" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> </p><p>Side by side one can really see the difference. I'm much happier with these small changes. (Which in the end are really big improvements) </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/28825333783/in/set-72157669867626544" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8730/28825333783_b5bf663160.jpg" id="blogsy-1473082495317.0806" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> </p><p> </p><p>The old webbing won't go totally to waste. It fits perfectly on this swivel snap that I scavenged off an old Lands End canvas briefcase. It will become a clip for car keys somewhere inside the bag. </p><p> </p><p>I'm not wild about the "innards" of the Lucy Backpack as designed, so I set out to make it more closely meet my needs. I'd like a large padded pocket along the inside back of the backpack to hold my iPad or Kindle. The Lucy has a zipper pocket on the outside of the back which would drive me crazy. I'd much prefer any zippered pocket to be on the inside. </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/29461267215/in/set-72157669867626544" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8051/29461267215_ed925260c6.jpg" id="blogsy-1473082495263.849" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> </p><p> My plan is to make a little zipper pocket on the outside of a bigger pocket / sleeve. The zipper pocket was a breeze thanks to "backpack queen" <a href="http://vacuumingthelawn.blogspot.com/2015/03/two-wonder-tape-tips.html" target="_blank" title="">Kyle over at Vacuuming the Lawn.</a> She not only sent me the link to a great <a href="http://emmalinebags.blogspot.com/2012/01/how-to-sew-zipper-pocket-tutorial.html" target="_blank" title="">tutorial</a>, she also sent me a roll of Wonder Tape and a box of Wonder Clips to make the job easier. Sewing people are the BEST, are they not. Thank you, Kyle! </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/28837133264/in/set-72157669867626544" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8295/28837133264_48f8cdb061_c.jpg" id="blogsy-1473082495304.8145" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><p> </p><p> So here's how it turned out. A pocket on a pocket. The lining is made with a quilting cotton from JoAnn's which is printed horribly off-grain, making everything look cockeyed. Grrrr. The top of the sleeve is finished off with some homemade bias trim, because...why not. </p><p> </p><p>A variety of interfacings were used to give the lining some structure. I worry that the whole backpack could end up being a big floppy mess, so I'm working to avoid that. </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/28849724533/in/set-72157669867626544" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8553/28849724533_f53963b9a1_c.jpg" id="blogsy-1473082495252.658" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><p> </p><p> Here I've folded all the layers back. The area of the welt is reinforced with a strip of <a href="https://www.fashionsewingsupply.com/product_info.php?cPath=22&products_id=76" target="_blank" title="">Shirt Crisp Fusible </a>from Fashion Sewing Supply. The pocket bag is also completely interfaced Shirt Crisp. The inner layer of the sleeve and the entire outer layer of the lining are reinforced with Pelon Thermolam, a fleecy fusible. Shirt Crisp was used again on the top trim piece where the grommets will be located. </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/29172806970/in/set-72157669867626544" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8511/29172806970_abf7fb0259_c.jpg" id="blogsy-1473082495308.5671" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="666"></a></div><p> </p><p>And here is the lininging for the front of the backpack. It has two padded pockets, one for maps of NYC (invaluable for this country bumpkin), and one for fabric swatches that I always carry with me. A little patch pocket of ultrasuede holds my cards. </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/29363071322/in/set-72157669867626544" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8522/29363071322_b8b2d705a7_c.jpg" id="blogsy-1473082495259.5195" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><p> </p><p> Pulled apart to show the interfacing. </p><p> </p><p>Next time I'll finish up the lining (Wonder Clips will be involved), and venture into the unknown territory of faux fur! Until then, happy sewing! </p><p> </p><div style="text-align: right; font-size: small; clear: both;" id="blogsy_footer"><a href="http://blogsyapp.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://blogsyapp.com/images/blogsy_footer_icon.png" alt="Posted with Blogsy" style="vertical-align: middle; margin-right: 5px;" width="20" height="20" />Posted with Blogsy</a></div>Mainelydadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05718855427399616514noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7579381835650147304.post-35892823310333172682016-08-27T19:03:00.001-04:002016-08-27T19:03:04.285-04:00Backpack Crush! <p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/29164245542/in/set-72157669867626544" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8411/29164245542_1afa194005.jpg" id="blogsy-1472338836020.3425" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="288"></a></div><p> </p><p style="text-align: center;">Oh, MIchael, you may not dig the hairy forearm look, but I'm totally crushing on your hairy / fur backpack for Fall 2016. </p><p style="text-align: center;"> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/28652117603/in/set-72157669867626544" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8408/28652117603_957026a6c3.jpg" id="blogsy-1472338836084.6633" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="303" height="454"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> </div><p style="text-align: center;">Talk about "Love at First Sight" !!! </p><p style="text-align: center;"> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/28651174463/in/set-72157669867626544" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8752/28651174463_3536080717.jpg" id="blogsy-1472338836040.4236" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="500"></a></div><p style="text-align: left;"> </p><p> </p><p> Even though this backpack is plastered all over MK's website, I can't find it for sale anywhere. NOT that I would ever be able to afford it. The closest thing I can find is a black shearling version at Saks for $798. Yes, people have that much $$$ to blow on a backpack. </p><p> </p><p>My mission is to create my own version which, admittedly, is whole lot more fun. Plus, this will be my first foray into bag making. </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/29163247732/in/set-72157669867626544" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8205/29163247732_3bbaebc569.jpg" id="blogsy-1472338836097.4856" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> </p><p> </p><p>I started collecting the materials for this project at Peter's <a href="http://malepatternboldness.blogspot.com/2016/03/first-ever-mpb-winter-frolic-fantasy-of.html" target="_blank" title="">MPB Winter Frolic </a>back in March. (I'm hoping for a repeat in 2017!). I purchased a half yard of faux fur at <a href="http://www.nyelegant.com" target="_blank" title="">NY Elegant on W 40th St.</a> They have a huge selection of furry delights up in the mezzanine. Their inventory truly runs from the sublime to the downright ridiculous. Don't, however, expect to find any "bargains" here. Sometimes a splurge is in order. And somehow, having so many furs to choose from can justify the price of admission. I fell hard for this silver tipped number with a rust undercolor that's revealed when the fabric folds. I wish you could feel how deliciously soft it is. Yummy! </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/28983228960/in/set-72157669867626544" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8488/28983228960_5109a341a8.jpg" id="blogsy-1472338836041.69" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> </p><p> I've gradually been collecting the other bits and pieces I'll need. I'm going to substitute gray ultrasuede for the leather portions of the MK bag. The webbing is actually a better match than it appears in these photos. Trust me, it's not lavender! I still need to get a grommet kit and 3/8" grommets. I'm also reconsidering some of my hardware choices. There are lots of options out there! Swivel clips, D rings and slides, Oh MY! </p><p> </p><p>I've also hit JoAnn's for some interfacing and stiffening products I'm not familiar with. Pellon Shapeflex (which is a fusible stiffener for the back and bottom), and Pellon Thermolam (a fleecy fusible that I'll pad the lining with). If anyone has experience with these please chime in!</p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/29237304566/in/set-72157669867626544" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8441/29237304566_d425817a47.jpg" id="blogsy-1472338836100.1143" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> </p><p> I looked around on the Internet and Etsy and settled on this pattern. The <a href="https://swoonpatterns.com/shop/lucy-backpack/" target="_blank" title="">Lucy backpack</a> from <a href="https://swoonpatterns.com" target="_blank" title="">Swoon Sewing Patterns</a>. It has the overall shape of the MK, a drawstring top with grommets and a good sized flap. It has some features I don't like, but those are easy to omit. I'll configure the inside to suit my needs. Basically, a padded pocket to hold my iPad, one small zippered compartment and other open pockets for pens, checkbook, fabric swatches etc. </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/28648489144/in/set-72157669867626544" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8115/28648489144_3fdbdb854c.jpg" id="blogsy-1472338836041.8447" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> </p><p> I picked up a remnant of upholstery tapestry for $2 at Goodwill and banged out a rough "muslin". The directions were well illustrated and very easy to follow. Kudos to Swoon! </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/28650547943/in/set-72157669867626544" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title=""><img src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8174/28650547943_377d664d86.jpg" id="blogsy-1472338836107.1375" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> </p><p> I poked holes in the top band to simulate grommets and threaded some SnugHug through to get the gist of the drawstring. It really helps me to work through all this in advance, especially since I've deviated from the pattern in places. </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/29271562575/in/set-72157669867626544" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8328/29271562575_7f15a25fa7.jpg" id="blogsy-1472338836068.481" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> </p><p>This is just some twill tape to simulate the straps.</p><p> </p><p>Overall, I think I'm off to a good start. The bag may be just a touch on the small side, so I may lengthen it by an inch or two. The next step is to research how to work with faux fur. I hear I'll need a good vacuum cleaner! </p><p> </p><p>My sewing and blogging has really taken a backseat to the boat this summer. I'm really wanting to have the whole project wrapped up before the snow flies, but there are days when I have my doubts. Recently I've been making the spars (mast, boom, gaff and jib club). Basically, planing and sanding square stock into round parts. I'm pleased with the results, but can't honestly say that any of it has been fun. </p><p> </p><p> Bring on the backpack!</p><p> </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/29240506296/in/set-72157645347014632" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8577/29240506296_577b3b7a8b_c.jpg" id="blogsy-1472338836091.9336" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><p> </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/29195863051/in/set-72157645347014632" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8053/29195863051_8ffcfb193f.jpg" id="blogsy-1472338836113.8618" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="500"></a></div><p> </p><div style="text-align: right; font-size: small; clear: both;" id="blogsy_footer"><a href="http://blogsyapp.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://blogsyapp.com/images/blogsy_footer_icon.png" alt="Posted with Blogsy" style="vertical-align: middle; margin-right: 5px;" width="20" height="20" />Posted with Blogsy</a></div>Mainelydadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05718855427399616514noreply@blogger.com17tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7579381835650147304.post-40771801681528811902016-07-05T17:20:00.001-04:002016-07-05T20:34:53.987-04:00New Summer Shirts<p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/27493325994/in/set-72157669428063775" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7551/27493325994_2bbb471417_c.jpg" id="blogsy-1467765254630.523" class="aligncenter" width="500" height="667" alt=""></a></div><p> </p><p>What's better than a new shirt for summer??? Two new shirts! </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/27643124741/in/set-72157669428063775" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7624/27643124741_23d66e4ecc.jpg" id="blogsy-1467765254653.797" class="aligncenter" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/27105356764/in/set-72157669428063775" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7288/27105356764_9f8bee473f.jpg" id="blogsy-1467765254683.0884" class="aligncenter" width="500" height="375" alt=""></a></div><p> </p><p>I made just a couple little adjustments to my vintage pattern. I always need a sloped shoulder adjustment (top pic), and I also added a slight curve to the upper back (lower pic). I also cut the undercollar and the collar interfacing on the bias. I think that helps a camp collar fit a little better. Oh, and I added some extra fabric at the lower sides to allow for some small side slits. </p><p>Both shirts have sew-in interfacing. A fusible would have flattened out all the crinkle on the graffiti print, so I used some very lightweight cotton gauze from my stash. I think it was intended to be used for sheer curtains. It's that light, and it worked perfectly. The plaid shirt is interfaced with <a href="https://www.fashionsewingsupply.com/" target="_blank" title="">Fashion Sewing Supply's</a> "light crisp" sew-in. A dream to work with, and it didn't weigh down my fabric. No guy wants a heavy summer shirt. </p><p>All the construction was extremely straightforward. Basic shirt stuff. </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/27617065612/in/set-72157669428063775" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7527/27617065612_836ce83b43_c.jpg" id="blogsy-1467765254652.7244" class="aligncenter" width="500" height="665" alt=""></a></div><p> </p><p> The plaid shirt is a whisper weight cotton madras plaid from <a href="https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=GM1LoL09ju8&autoplay=1" target="_blank" title="">Peron Fabrics</a>. It's been patiently waiting in my stash for the right pattern to come along. </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/28031089711/in/set-72157669428063775" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title=""><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7348/28031089711_1291fa001d_c.jpg" id="blogsy-1467765254690.5593" class="aligncenter" width="500" height="662" alt=""></a></div><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">I'<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/28008776712/in/set-72157669428063775" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title=""><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7428/28008776712_17c006a54f.jpg" id="blogsy-1467765254696.6865" class="aligncenter" width="500" height="500" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> </div><p> The truly observant will notice that I've used this fabric before... namely as bias binding, elbow patches and other assorted do-dads on last year's Watanabe inspired jacket and fishing vest. It's a lotta look! I'll save it for a day when I'm feeling especially "fashion adventurous". A morning at the laundromat maybe! </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/28074497786/in/set-72157669428063775" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title=""><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7179/28074497786_ce32acc55c_c.jpg" id="blogsy-1467765254701.7063" class="aligncenter" width="500" height="783" alt=""></a> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> </div><p> I fell in love with this crazy crinkled graffiti print at <a href="http://www.elliottbermantextiles.com/" target="_blank" title="">Elliot Berman</a>. I don't tend to wear much blue, other than jeans, so this is a big departure for me.... Both color and style wise. It's hard enough getting older, even worse to be old and turn into a stodgy fuddy duddy. No chance of that with this shirt! </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/28031088001/in/set-72157669428063775" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7578/28031088001_f96e862024_c.jpg" id="blogsy-1467765254692.371" class="aligncenter" width="500" height="666" alt=""></a></div><p> </p><p style="text-align: center;"> Plus, summer is made for wearing crazy shirts! </p><p style="text-align: center;"> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/28103111455/in/set-72157669428063775" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7482/28103111455_7b9873115c_c.jpg" id="blogsy-1467765254674.5513" class="aligncenter" width="500" height="667" alt=""></a></div><p> </p><p style="text-align: center;"> So get out there and have your very own......</p><p style="text-align: center;"> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/27497264233/in/set-72157669428063775" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7562/27497264233_99dd6ee19b_c.jpg" id="blogsy-1467765254623.3655" class="aligncenter" width="500" height="667" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> </div><p> </p><div style="text-align: right; font-size: small; clear: both;" id="blogsy_footer"><a href="http://blogsyapp.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://blogsyapp.com/images/blogsy_footer_icon.png" alt="Posted with Blogsy" style="vertical-align: middle; margin-right: 5px;" width="20" height="20" />Posted with Blogsy</a></div>Mainelydadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05718855427399616514noreply@blogger.com19tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7579381835650147304.post-88545120233386178932016-06-07T11:44:00.001-04:002016-06-07T11:52:47.509-04:00The Blazer Goes on Ice. <p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/24820955225/in/set-72157664832949963" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1562/24820955225_276deb664d.jpg" id="blogsy-1465314738819.9724" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="110"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/26900589824/in/set-72157669428063775" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7799/26900589824_e660a9ee0d.jpg" id="blogsy-1465314738744.4875" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="500"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> </div><p> I've decided to make it official and declare the blazer project officially on ice for the time being. Try as I might, I just can't gather any enthusiasm for it. It's funny how something can suck all the sewing mojo right out of me. The thought of a third muslin has had me stalled for an entire month. </p><p> </p><p> I received some great advice on my various fitting issues, and for that I'm so grateful. With your suggestions I know I can make the blazer better, but my heart just isn't in it right now. Somehow the timing is off. Maybe it's the season...it's summer and I want fun things to make and wear. A black wool blazer....not so much. So I've packed it all away with a few mothballs, and I feel a huge weight has been lifted. </p><p> </p><p>Another lift came in the form of a lovely note from my sewing pal Enrique. Yes! He's still alive! </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/26901843903/in/set-72157669428063775" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title=""><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7783/26901843903_cee2cbbede.jpg" id="blogsy-1465314738840.7441" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> </p><p> He enclosed swatches of shirt fabrics that he has in the pipeline, along with some of his street photography. Such a talented guy! </p><p> </p><p>So, taking a page from his playbook, I've decided to make myself some fun summer shirts. This is guaranteed to be the cure to my sewing doldrums. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/27475304156/in/set-72157669428063775" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7284/27475304156_5f819d167d.jpg" id="blogsy-1465314738767.2678" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> </p><p>Fabrics....a lightweight cotton madras-y plaid (which I've used in two other projects), and a crazy graffiti / camouflage crinkled fabric that I found at Elliott Berman. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/27475318926/in/set-72157669428063775" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7326/27475318926_8b506a3fc1_c.jpg" id="blogsy-1465314738816.8315" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/26900578014/in/set-72157669428063775" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7360/26900578014_26aa2228a4.jpg" id="blogsy-1465314738768.5256" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> </p><p> I picked up this vintage pattern on Etsy awhile back. I'd been on the search for a new casual shirt pattern and this beauty appeared. </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/27522928945/in/set-72157669428063775" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7369/27522928945_d18492c4c6.jpg" id="blogsy-1465314738769.8142" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="500"></a></div><p> </p><p> I love all the little details on this shirt... The back collar button, center back box pleat, a little tuck on the sleeve that creates a cuff effect, and most of all the hybrid camp / buttondown collar. I'm guessing it dates from the 60's. My thanks to whoever saved it these past 50 years. </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/27450716081/in/set-72157669428063775" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7518/27450716081_0dcec22f9c_c.jpg" id="blogsy-1465314738753.2864" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><p> </p><p> And, look ladies! There's a matching shirt for you! </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/26902063073/in/set-72157669428063775" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7500/26902063073_e8c8c5e34f_z.jpg" id="blogsy-1465314738823.482" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="626"></a></div><p> </p><p> Go on, unleash your inner Nancy Reagan! Hmmmm...on second thought.....</p><p> </p><p>I can't wait to get started on these shirts. I wish you all happy summer sewing projects! </p><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><div style="text-align: right; font-size: small; clear: both;" id="blogsy_footer"><a href="http://blogsyapp.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://blogsyapp.com/images/blogsy_footer_icon.png" alt="Posted with Blogsy" style="vertical-align: middle; margin-right: 5px;" width="20" height="20" />Posted with Blogsy</a></div>Mainelydadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05718855427399616514noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7579381835650147304.post-34137811821465747382016-05-12T19:07:00.001-04:002016-05-12T19:07:29.480-04:00Muslin #2, Mrs. Mole's fix and MORE! <p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/24820955225/in/set-72157664832949963" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1562/24820955225_276deb664d.jpg" id="blogsy-1463094344262.971" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="110"></a></div><p> </p><p>The fitting battle continues.... First, thanks Mrs. Mole for your suggestion. I took your advice for my Dowager's hump, and the result is perfect. Plus it was extremely easy. Here's what it looks like... </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/26349846583/in/set-72157664832949963" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7260/26349846583_3d32535891.jpg" id="blogsy-1463094344292.375" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> </p><p> </p><p>I sliced across the back at yoke level, and swung the top half up to create a curve at the upper back. Simple. Also visible here is my forward shoulder adjustment, which I hope will move the seam closer to the apex of my shoulder. An equal amount was subtracted from the front shoulder seam to balance out the equation, so to speak. </p><p> </p><p>I then went looking for clues as to why the jacket won't hug my neck. Check this out.....</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/26860100042/in/set-72157664832949963" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7361/26860100042_6517e32695.jpg" id="blogsy-1463094344232.8997" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> </p><p> So this is the neckline of the Bill Blass suit that I made a couple years ago. Note the nicely curved lined where the front joins the back. Also see that the back shoulder is wider than the front, which is correct. </p><p> </p><p>Now look at my current pattern....</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/26860091172/in/set-72157664832949963" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7169/26860091172_459faacbcb.jpg" id="blogsy-1463094344230.7207" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> </p><p> </p><p>How is this jagged line supposed to curve around anyone's neck? No wonder it won't fit! </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/26348903574/in/set-72157664832949963" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7322/26348903574_fa77d3e7c4.jpg" id="blogsy-1463094344316.4065" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> </p><p> I've taped in a scrap of paper and drawn the missing curve. And while I'm tweaking things, I added a 1/4" to the lapel width (just a little too 60's narrow), and reduced the curve at the bottom edges of the jacket fronts, which seemed to "cut away" too much for my taste. (I think this was due to the high positioning of the buttons on the original). </p><p> </p><p>So here's Version 2.0. </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/26954473945/in/set-72157664832949963" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title=""><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7024/26954473945_7d1e8dd53a_c.jpg" id="blogsy-1463094344218.0413" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><p> </p><p> Much better fit around the neck, and across the upper chest. (You have to excuse my left arm, which is permanently bent due to an old injury, hence all the wrinkles). </p><p> </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/26680886550/in/set-72157664832949963" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7727/26680886550_16efaaf8df_c.jpg" id="blogsy-1463094344310.3984" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/26860073832/in/set-72157664832949963" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7362/26860073832_1e7f601b3b_c.jpg" id="blogsy-1463094344300.3816" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><p> </p><p>My fitting issues seem to have moved from the front to the back, where excess fabric is bunched up behind my arms. It's not the end of the world, but I think it could look better. </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/26680872660/in/set-72157664832949963" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title=""><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7045/26680872660_4cd321d85f_c.jpg" id="blogsy-1463094344266.653" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><p> </p><p> I spent the rest of an afternoon trying to work it out. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/26861853112/in/set-72157664832949963" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title=""><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7742/26861853112_e5da9bd675_c.jpg" id="blogsy-1463094344283.7117" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><p> </p><p> This is version 2.1. I took out 1/4" from the back armscye. I'm way out of my depth here, but this is looking better to me. I still have room to move, and more importantly, I haven't screwed up the front. Sometimes I feel that I fix one thing only to f$&@ up something else. Have you been there? </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/26351689453/in/set-72157664832949963" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7055/26351689453_8646886547_c.jpg" id="blogsy-1463094344263.5244" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/26956185525/in/set-72157664832949963" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7663/26956185525_084bbea239_c.jpg" id="blogsy-1463094344288.037" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><p> </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/26867460532/in/set-72157664832949963" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title=""><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7320/26867460532_c47b93bcbc.jpg" id="blogsy-1463094344279.8066" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="500"></a></div><div class="separator" style="text-align: left; clear: both;"> </div><div class="separator" style="text-align: left; clear: both;">These are details of Version 2.2. I think I've removed 1/4" from both the back armscye and the under sleeve. It's easy to loose track of what I'm doing. I've changed my shirt with each adjustment so I can keep them straight. I'm not a fitting expert, so I'm just going with what I think will work. Also, I haven't physically trimmed anything. I'm just taking in what I think is excess fabric and basting a new stitching line. </div><div class="separator" style="text-align: left; clear: both;"> </div><div class="separator" style="text-align: left; clear: both;">Lastly here is version 2.3, where I think I pulled the jacket side up 1/4" at the underarm. I can honestly say I'm at the end of my rope with fitting at this point. I wish I had the persistence of Michael over at <a href="http://lineofselvage.jotabout.com" target="_blank" title="">Line of Selvedge,</a> a guy who can work through muslin after muslin after muslin. Sadly, I don't have that patience. I'm burning out here. Fast. </div><div class="separator" style="text-align: left; clear: both;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/26968762435/in/set-72157664832949963" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title=""><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7639/26968762435_61efd464f4.jpg" id="blogsy-1463094344235.776" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="500"></a></div><div class="separator" style="text-align: left; clear: both;"> This is, after all, just a bedsheet. I'm going to let the dust settle and read your suggestions, which are always so helpful. In the meantime I'll work on the boat; one project where I'm actually making some progress! </div><div class="separator" style="text-align: left; clear: both;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/98910511@N03/26363711384/in/set-72157645347014632" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7157/26363711384_3d200dfd61_c.jpg" id="blogsy-1463094344313.1338" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="667"></a></div><div class="separator" style="text-align: left; clear: both;"> </div><div class="separator" style="text-align: left; clear: both;">I've built in little side storage lockers (room for a life vest and lunch), and I'm preparing to install teak floor boards. Finally a level surface to stand on! </div><div class="separator" style="text-align: left; clear: both;"> </div><div class="separator" style="text-align: left; clear: both;">I hope all your projects, sewing and otherwise, are going well. Cheers! </div><div class="separator" style="text-align: left; clear: both;"> </div><div class="separator" style="text-align: left; clear: both;"> </div><div class="separator" style="text-align: left; clear: both;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> </div><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><div style="text-align: right; font-size: small; clear: both;" id="blogsy_footer"><a href="http://blogsyapp.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://blogsyapp.com/images/blogsy_footer_icon.png" alt="Posted with Blogsy" style="vertical-align: middle; margin-right: 5px;" width="20" height="20" />Posted with Blogsy</a></div>Mainelydadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05718855427399616514noreply@blogger.com11