tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7579381835650147304.post3486766556017080657..comments2024-03-29T03:13:08.134-04:00Comments on The Japanese Pattern Challenge: Blazer of 2016 -- Muslin #1Mainelydadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05718855427399616514noreply@blogger.comBlogger18125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7579381835650147304.post-25279579217839025672016-05-04T09:54:12.122-04:002016-05-04T09:54:12.122-04:00Hello! I am loving what you are doing here. I'...Hello! I am loving what you are doing here. I'm so glad you picked up on my #Blazerof2016 challenge and you should be proud of what you have done so far. Great back adjustment and a little more will make it perfect I think. As for the FSA (shoulder) you are spot on!<br />Keep in touch<br />Jamie (MaleDevonSewing)Jamie Kemphttps://www.blogger.com/profile/05233627711129525923noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7579381835650147304.post-42874055656893408032016-04-30T15:46:11.968-04:002016-04-30T15:46:11.968-04:00I agree with Mrs. Mole. Also, you are on the righ...I agree with Mrs. Mole. Also, you are on the right track with the adjustment you want to make to the shoulder seam which is a forward shoulder adjustment.Tomasahttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12001675806748209852noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7579381835650147304.post-72248031717823533392016-04-28T13:20:42.665-04:002016-04-28T13:20:42.665-04:00Making a men's tailored jacket is one of most ...Making a men's tailored jacket is one of most difficult sewing and fitting projects you can do. Sometimes, instead of all the tailoring and fitting, I prefer to make more casual fitting jackets that are not so formal. I seem to get more wear out of them because I can wear them everywhere. They are also easier to fit and sew since the fit is more forgiving than a more formal fitted jacket. MaximusTheWestiehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08120415563200330386noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7579381835650147304.post-39787291385968660912016-04-28T08:57:47.997-04:002016-04-28T08:57:47.997-04:00I learn a lot watching your process and reading th...I learn a lot watching your process and reading the comments. Thanks for sharing.BeckyWhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14978486228919306813noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7579381835650147304.post-40376449686729045232016-04-28T06:25:25.124-04:002016-04-28T06:25:25.124-04:00I like the shoulder seam to sit at the apex of the...I like the shoulder seam to sit at the apex of the shoulder, although this line can really vary with who ever is doing the drafting/ tailoring. It can also vary with the individual client, since I used the same muslin to fit several men for a fitted ballet costume jacket, and I had to redraw that seam each time. To me, the seam over the shoulder apex has nice symmetry. JohninKenthttps://www.blogger.com/profile/02113968259661641897noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7579381835650147304.post-79882793369980497912016-04-27T18:33:23.250-04:002016-04-27T18:33:23.250-04:00I really found this post interesting and informati...I really found this post interesting and informative, the comments too, quite a disparate lot of advice. I think you are doing a great job and wait to see what the final solution would be. I have fitting issues around the front of my shoulders and have tried various fixes, some worked, some didn't, but then that is what 'bespoke' is all about.Maureen Cooksleyhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/16403403591336961688noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7579381835650147304.post-4193598962892005732016-04-26T21:53:39.756-04:002016-04-26T21:53:39.756-04:00Well, Providence, RI is/was the costume jewelry ca...Well, Providence, RI is/was the costume jewelry capital of the world, and all the brass charms used to come from there. Probably not now.<br /><br />As ever, fascinating to watch your process/progress. Thank you so much!<br />SJ Kurtzhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04871599515352715171noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7579381835650147304.post-44685106435281390672016-04-26T21:21:50.154-04:002016-04-26T21:21:50.154-04:00Your garments always look perfect. But since you a...Your garments always look perfect. But since you asked... The books I am using on my new jacket project are https://www.scribd.com/doc/276917228/Easy-Guide-to-Sewing-Jackets and https://www.scribd.com/doc/255894999/Men-s-Wear-tailoring-Techniques. These are free to download. I had the wrong link in my first comment. Oops!Thin Man Sewinghttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08820357163147529393noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7579381835650147304.post-41837607901396510372016-04-26T21:17:58.038-04:002016-04-26T21:17:58.038-04:00This comment has been removed by the author.Thin Man Sewinghttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08820357163147529393noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7579381835650147304.post-29815932274172540392016-04-26T18:44:06.400-04:002016-04-26T18:44:06.400-04:00I wouldn't call it "dowager's hump&qu...I wouldn't call it "dowager's hump" since that to me is the exaggerated osteoporosis curve needing almost a two piece yoke but the "high round back" alteration as found in the Palmer and Pletsch fitting books. I do a high round back on every top pattern now exactly as Mrs Mole describes as it raises the neckline so the garment sits where it is supposed to. And since I have sloping shoulders, this correction is usually enough that I don't need to monkey with the armscye. I am enjoying watching your progress and look forward to the final garment.<br />Theresa in Tucsontheresahttps://www.blogger.com/profile/13871779245121626075noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7579381835650147304.post-21692103785482239902016-04-26T17:04:03.359-04:002016-04-26T17:04:03.359-04:00Some reat advice. I was going to suggest on this m...Some reat advice. I was going to suggest on this muslin, nipping a pinch out of the back seam and collar, to bring the collar line in closer to your neck. Hard to tell if it will work on a muslin when the collar is constructed but it will effectively allow you to put a bit of a curve in at the top of that seam to allow for your shape, and draw the whole thing in more. Worth a try on the toile anyway.MrsC (Maryanne)https://www.blogger.com/profile/14440723067459232998noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7579381835650147304.post-50797188896594218272016-04-26T14:31:47.732-04:002016-04-26T14:31:47.732-04:00I second mrsmole's comment, and add that I wou...I second mrsmole's comment, and add that I would use her method *instead of* your front/back dart (rather than *in addition to*). I think the front dart has, in effect, created an A cup bustline and thus diagonal drape lines in the front, extending from chest to hip. I posit that removing the horizontal darting will relax the front back into an on-grain vertical fall-line more reflective of a male torso, and get rid of the drape lines.SilverMomhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12805572131213530740noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7579381835650147304.post-1252717864908013182016-04-26T13:58:33.524-04:002016-04-26T13:58:33.524-04:00Even though you do not want to use the term dowage...Even though you do not want to use the term dowager's hump, that is what you need to bring the back neckline up and forward by 1/2 inch. Slash across the line where a yoke would be and leave a hinge on the armscye. Allow the slash to open 1/2 inch and add paper under the new opening...tape down. This works for all patterns that have a center back seam. Good luck!mrsmolehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/16329515914613595719noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7579381835650147304.post-42150550977825825512016-04-26T10:55:41.300-04:002016-04-26T10:55:41.300-04:00A forward shoulder adjustment should help the coll...A forward shoulder adjustment should help the collar lie a little better, and will correct the position of the shoulder seam (it might even help with the drape of the front). And, happily, it's a completely intuitive adjustment.CinderellaRidvanhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/02419935091671465978noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7579381835650147304.post-14069365521851133972016-04-26T06:58:05.191-04:002016-04-26T06:58:05.191-04:00Oh, if only I was that talented!!!! Maybe I'l...Oh, if only I was that talented!!!! Maybe I'll get there someday. Mainelydadhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/05718855427399616514noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7579381835650147304.post-43370423791803856792016-04-26T04:18:38.330-04:002016-04-26T04:18:38.330-04:001/2" on back shoulder seam is a lot! on indus...1/2" on back shoulder seam is a lot! on industry you would use 0.7 mm difference, and about 1.5cm top if you use super heavy fabric as heavy wool.<br /><br />I do think that it would actually be easier for you to create your own pattern from draft - it would look well fitted instead of half fittedMichal (Skeletons Out of Closet)https://www.blogger.com/profile/05990620627136344377noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7579381835650147304.post-9095408307892128232016-04-26T02:49:41.602-04:002016-04-26T02:49:41.602-04:00Take some food the front shoulder and add this to...Take some food the front shoulder and add this to the back shoulder Seam . That should bring it forwardpatiobhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/10974337066435124259noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7579381835650147304.post-90083537098996643172016-04-26T01:28:15.606-04:002016-04-26T01:28:15.606-04:00I really love reading your tailoring adventures! I...I really love reading your tailoring adventures! Informative and fun. Ninhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/07242111600334399800noreply@blogger.com