A blog born from the desire for a winter coat in a color other than black. With limited sewing experience and no knowledge of Japanese I've worked through all the patterns in Ryuichiro Shimazaki's book on men's coats. If I can do it, anyone can! But the challenges continue. Join me as I continue to explore the world of menswear. I AM my own luxury brand!
Thursday, September 23, 2010
The agony of grain perfection defeat
Getting this project off the ground has been a challenge. It should have been cut out and half sewn by now. Hmmm. wasn't this supposed to be my Fall coat? The sticking point has been that, try as I might, I can't align the grain of this fabric. Nothing so far has been easy. The weft fibers on this brushed twill are very fine and fragile, so I was unable to pull a thread across the width of the cloth. Instead I had to tear the fabric. But what I assumed would be a little 1/2" strip turned into a whopping triangular hunk about 8" wide. With the ends basted together a la Edna Bishop the fabric skews off on an impossible angle. Hopefully the pictures give you the idea. I immediately ran to the Pattern Review message board and received a variety of responses on how to remedy this problem. The most common suggestion was to dampen the whole mess and try to stretch / coax it back into shape. Using the London Shrink method I rewet the cloth and struggled with it for over an hour. All the pulling, smoothing and swearing was to no avail. Then I attempted to subdue the beast with the iron. I surrender! There is just no way to turn this giant twill parallelogram into a neat perfectly aligned rectangle. Sorry Edna! I've folded the cloth down the center, aligned the selvedges and will cut out the imperfect coat.
Duane, if the fabric is so radically off-grain, I'd get some different fabric. Where did you pick it up?
ReplyDeleteIs it really that off-grain? I thought that twill sometimes won't rip straight because of the diagonal weave. (maybe I'm on glue.) Is it possible to trace the grain with a needle and contrasting thread somewhere around where the fold line should be?
ReplyDeleteI'd dump that fabric so fast it would make your head spin. Get a grain!
ReplyDeletePeter, I picked this up @ Peron's half price bargain annex. Guess there was a reason!
ReplyDeleteSO make the coat and just lean in one direction or the other so nobody will notice the grain is off!
ReplyDelete