This Man is Muslin'd Out!

I'm not sure that what I have to report today is really progress. A month ago I left off wondering if I should go ahead and do a sloped shoulder adjustment. The general concensus was that I should man-up and go for it. Since I don't have the contrasting fabric for the reverse of the jacket fronts (which I've convinced myself that I really want) there doesn't seem to be a good excuse not to. So, off with the sleeves!

Ripping up a muslin is like dismembering a whole chicken. Not my idea of fun.

Thankfully, some parts need no adjusting. So I get to keep the wings, drumsticks and gizzard.

For those of you new to the sloped shoulder adjustment, here's a very generalized overview.

The line of the shoulder is redrawn at a steeper angle starting from the neck edge which remains unchanged. This sets off a cascade of additional adjustments. I decided that the armscye end of the shoulder seam needed to be dropped 1/2".

The armscye can stay the same, but it needs to be dropped down 1/2". So I place my tracing paper pattern back over the printed pattern allowing for the new shoulder point and redraw the armscye line for my size. You can see how the notch is now lower and a crescent is trimmed out of the lower armscye. (Note to self: next time don't use a Sharpie which blobs and bleeds out all over the place!)

The side seams are now shorter by 1/2", so I've tacked on a strip of tracing paper and redrawn the bottom edge, tapering back to the original line at the center front. A hip rule helps, but one could also just freehand a slight curve here.

The sloped shoulder adjustment is something of a paradox. By lowering all the various points, shoulder, armscye and side seam, the final effect is that the fabric is pulled up onto the chest. The upshot of all this? Frequently the neck edge is uncomfortably high.

That was the case here, so I trimmed 1/2" off the front neck edge at the center. The "X" (not the smudge) is where the edge of the collar will hopefully align. The back neck also gets raised, but in my case it actually made the collar fit better.

So here is muslin #3 worn with a thin shoulder pad. I ran out of the red tablecloth material so forgive the clown costume look. Is it really any better? I'm quite honestly not sure. There may be just a bit too much wearing ease across the upper chest, so I may shave off a 1/4". But then again, a little drape isn't such a bad thing. The shoulder is a little dropped, which wasn't as noticeable when it was a solid color. I don't find it offensive, so I'm not going to start fiddling around with it. After awhile there seems to be a point of diminishing returns with all this fitting. At this stage it's comfortable and wearable. Another muslin and I run the risk of losing interest in the project altogether. That's a sure sign to just move on.

The back... ??? I never know what's going on here. Any smaller across the back and it would be a real struggle to put on. And once on, I wouldn't be able to move. I keep telling myself that in the end it will be velvet, and those folds will catch the light, just adding more richness. Right?

Just for the heck of it, here it is without any shoulder pads. I'm thinking it could totally work this way too. It's much more shirt-like this way. Trying it this way has also raised the possibility of making my own very minimal shoulder pads. Since they come late in the construction process, I'm just going to leave all my options open at this stage of the game.

Sorry kids, but I'm fitted and muslin'd out!

To kick start my enthusiasm I went out and picked up some silk thread for basting and some silk pins.

I'm ready to start cutting this jacket out, which considering my limited yardage, may prove to be a challenge. I've read that cutting with the nap up gives richer color. Dear readers, please weigh in with your velvet expertise! Nap up or nap down? I don't want to mess this up.

Obligatory boat progress pic!

Muslin #2, The Belgian Chef's Jacket

I thought I'd show my alteration of the jacket's side front piece. The technique is "slash and separate". The advantage is that all the seamlines remain the same length and no adjustment needs to be made on any of the adjoining parts. The armscye, shoulder and neck remain unchanged. I am by no means a fitting expert. This is just a technique that's worked well for me. So here goes....

I cut along the grainline (you can still see my penciled arrow) from the hem up to the edge of the seam allowance at the shoulder seam. I separate the pattern the desired amount, 1/2" in this case, and then tape in some scraps of my Swedish tracing paper. In order to make the pattern lay flat I make horizontal slashes, again only going to the edge of the seam allowances, near the top of the pattern piece.

An overlap will occur along the horizontal slashes when the pattern is flattened out, and I tape them down. This process, however, distorts the shoulder line. A strip of tracing paper is taped to the top of the pattern piece and the shoulder seam is "trued up".

Here you see the small amount of tissue that has to be added.

Because my velvet, even from the Britex "bargain bin", is quite expensive, I really felt that I needed to remake my muslin. So I ripped it apart, cut new side fronts using the adjusted pattern and sewed it back up again. This is a truly miserable task, the less said the better. I just kept telling myself it would be worth the aggravation in the end.

So here's the revised muslin. Not really much of a change visually. It's still a very fitted garment, just much easier to "button". The change is more in how the jacket feels when worn.

Not quite as much pull from the armpit across the chest, which was the goal.

Unfortunately, I'm not quite sure what to make of the back. My hope is that the tablecloth fabric is clinging both to the felt shoulderpads and my cotton undershirt, thereby making these creases at the shoulder. Maybe this will all smooth out with my velvet and a silky lining? Of course what I'm dancing around here is that I may need a sloped shoulder adjustment. I've done it before. The big question is ... Do I have the drive to go there? It requires changing the shoulder line, dropping the armscye and adjusting the sides. A fair amount of redrafting. Muslin #3? I think I need to ponder this for awhile.

Fitting the Belgian Chef's Jacket

Contrary to public opinion, there has been some sewing going on here. I went ahead and made the men's size 40, and here's the result. As I mentioned previously, it went together easily. Please note: I have 1/2" shoulder pads pinned in for these photos. I think this pattern really demands them to look its best.

Overall, not bad just out of the gate. The fit at the shoulders is fine. As usual, the sleeves are a bit too long, an easy adjustment to make. The cuffs? Hmmm... I'm not completely sold on them yet. Convince me! My biggest concern is that it's a touch tight over the chest. I can really feel it pulling across the chest to the arm pit. I'm sure you fitting experts see it too.

The back, however, isn't bad. I don't think I have to mess with anything here. Plus, I never know how to fix things back here anyway! The length is also fine. It covers my belt both front and back. It may be too fitted at the waist which can cause the lower back to "hitch up", especially since the hemline dips down at the center. All things considered, the alterations are minimal.

What I'm really having to confront is what I want this garment to be, and how I intend to wear it. Now that I've tried it on, it strikes me as more of a fancy shirt than a jacket. I just can't see myself putting this on over a shirt and walking out the door. It just doesn't work as outerwear for me. I picture it worn as a shirt, all buttoned up and worn over, at most, a t-shirt for comfort. My velvet is quite fluid, so I would line it with the lightest weight material I can find. I want to keep it close to the body, especially at the waist. The challenge is to add some structure to the shoulders and upper chest while at the same time keeping it soft.

I'm also confronting the need for this garment and the very limited times that I would ever wear it. How many of us really need velvet clothing? Special occasion dressing for men. Now there's a concept ripe for discussion. I'll admit to having a few things in my closet that rarely see the light of day, but I'm glad to have them when the need arises. My "go to" fancy shirt for the past 10 years has been a Claiborne brown suede shirt. It's subtly luxurious, just a little over the top, and it always attracts positive comments. This velvet number, hardly as subtle, could possibly replace it. I just need to convince myself that it's right and that I should make it, even if I have nowhere to wear it right now. But, I digress...

So, back to fitting. Here I've repinned the front adding an extra inch of ease. It both looks better and feels much more comfortable.

Even with my arms raised my belt is staying covered.

Next step, redraft the side fronts adding a 1/2" of ease without altering the shoulder width, and figuring out just how much shorter I'd like the sleeves. Of course the big question looming is if I even have enough fabric to make the jacket. It's entirely possible that I don't, in which case I will have to search for some coordinating fabric. That, in turn, could make for a much more interesting "shirt", so I'm staying open for a variety of possibilities. A little vacation to the Jersey shore via the NYC garment district may be in order.


And for anyone who may be interested, work continues on the boat!

Cooking up the Belgian Chef's Jacket

Bloggers, do you feel guilty when it's been a month since your last post? I do! The reality is that there really hasn't been much time for sewing.

When I'm not out llama trekking with my son in the Smokey Mts.....

I've started building a small sailboat. Don't ask!

Anyway, today I decided to tackle the muslin of the chef's jacket. I'm considering this for the purple velvet that I picked up in San Francisco. It felt really good to be back sewing again. I traced all the pattern pieces onto my Swedish tracing paper as usual. For fabric I'm using someone's Christmas tablecloth that I picked up at Goodwill for $1.99. Yard for yard, Goodwill is the best source for muslin material anywhere.

I'm always glad to be making a muslin because it helps me discover a pattern's quirks, and this one has a few.

First is the sleeve contruction. There's a two piece sleeve, but the undersleeve is just a wedge shape. Interesting how it doesn't go all the way to the cuff, like on a man's suit jacket. There was some easing required to make the pieces align (good to know ahead of time), and the overall shape of the sleeve is quite pleasing. The instructions call for flat felled seams everywhere, but I won't be going that route. Topstitching and velvet? Um... No.

The turned up cuff is really a facing that's edgestitched into place. I don't have a lot of material to work with, so this could potentially be a contrasting fabric. Just a thought at this point. The whole junction of the sleeve seam and cuff is really awkward and messy. Yet another instance where I'm glad that I'm making a muslin. My plan is to line the jacket which should make this area neater. It will just take some thought and planning.

Man, there are some curvy seams on this jacket! Here I'm attaching the center front panel to the side front panel. This is really the critical design element of the whole piece, so it has to turn out well. I eased the center front by pulling up a thread. It worked great on a tablecloth, but will it work on velvet?

The rest of construction was straighforward. I have to say that this pattern is very well drafted, and the instructions are clear and easy to follow. The collar fit in perfectly and the sleeves were a breeze to set. It's always nice to know that some things will be easy down the road!

Next post I'll try it on. Cheers!

Handmaker's Factory -- Maker Men

I was truly flattered when Nichola, of Melbourne Australia no less, asked me to participate in her series, Maker Men. Afterall, I'm just a crazy man making my own clothes in the middle of nowhere on the coast of Maine.

So if you want to know more about me here's the link. As you'll see, I'm in with some pretty illustrious company! I also hope you'll consider joining Handmaker's Factory. The recent tragedy in Bangladesh makes the mission more poignant than ever.

http://www.handmakersfactory.com.au/Blog/tabid/222/articleType/CategoryView/categoryId/8/Meet-the-maker.aspx

The Shopping Spree

Is a trip to San Francisco complete without a visit to Britex? I think for most sewists the answer is a resounding "NO"!

For those of you who have never been and are curious, here's my country bumpkin impression. It's a four story "townhouse" of luxury fabrics in the posh Union Square district of the city. It's surrounded by every luxury brand emporium that you can name. Every floor is well staffed with sales associates that are eager to help you. The selection and the prices can be totally mind blowing.

Photography is not allowed in the store, so here's a little rundown (with images from the internet). The first floor is primarily solid fabrics all arranged chromatically from floor to ceiling and from the front of the store to the back. Think ... walking into a fabric rainbow. If you're looking for a specific shade of a specific color, this is your nirvana. The prices are all discretely hidden on tags tucked into the ends of the bolts. Pull the tag if you dare.

The second floor, as I recall, is mostly prints. Keep in mind that I'm shopping from a menswear perspective, so I tend to "glaze over" when there are lots of colorful prints around. Amidst the prints there's a large selection of traditional cotton shirting,including Liberty of London. Drool worthy.

Notions are on level 3. What does it say about you when you get excited about thread? Buttons? Milliner's needles?

Last stop, level 4 is the bargain "basement". Yes! This is where I belong. Everything is well organized here. All the remnants are arranged by fiber type, and everything is as neat as a pin. The staff are also wonderfully helpful, even for those of us who are "dumpster diving" looking for a deal. I saw some beautiful things up here.

So what did I splurge on ???

I picked up this almost 2 yard remnant of velvet on Level 4. (Sorry, but the first two floors of Britex are totally out of my league.) It's not quite enough for a jacket, which I would have loved, but more than enough for another Victorian vest, or two. It's really hard to capture the iridescent quality of this fabric, which alternates between purple and a loden green.

Here it shows a little better, falling over the edge of my work table. It all depends on the light and which way the nap is running. Funny story, I took the fabric to the button counter and couldn't understand why the sales associate kept pulling green buttons while I was looking at the purple ones. From her vantage point the fabric looked totally green! In the end I went with her green choice.

I also picked up an assortment of silk buttonhole twist. I really want to make some handworked buttonholes this year. They look so amazing, so Jermyn Street, and I'm in total awe of the guys I see doing them. I just need to get up the courage. Of course having the right materials to work with is key, and I'm not going to find this at JoAnn's. So... this little splurge was a no-brainer.

Lastly, I couldn't resist these felt toggles!

Each one is made with a roll of felt. Love!!!! I don't really have a plan for them yet, but I just couldn't resist. I also knew that I would kick myself forever if I passed on them.

Oh, and after you shoot your wad on expensive fabric you'll be needing cheap eats. I'd suggest Curry Up Now on Valencia in the Mission.

Happy sewing and shopping to you all!

Dad's Spring Break Photo Shoot

My trip to the west coast was fantastic. It was just the tonic that this winter-worn man needed. Birds singing, flowers blooming, sunshine, PLUS the chance to hang out with my amazingly talented and beautiful daughter.

My coat proved to be very travel worthy. I wore it on the plane both coming and going, and never felt that I was wearing a wrinkled mess. In these photos it hasn't seen an iron since leaving Maine. It's been worn in the car for an hour (it was 27 degrees when I left), on a bus for two more hours and in the air for at least six. So practical, Yes..... but stylish? Get this...

I'd only been in the Portland bus/train station a couple of minutes when a young guy walked by and said "nice coat!". Jackpot! When another guy comments on your clothing you know you've nailed it.

These photos were all taken at Lake Merritt in downtown Oakland, CA.

The slightly curved double piping pockets really do stay closed!

I'm really pleased with fit across the upper back. There's a lot of waist suppression to this pattern, which makes for a flattering fit.

So ends my journey into the lapel-less jacket, a style that I previously thought was completely ridiculous. I like it so much that I'm thinking about making it again in a lighter fabric and with less structure. Red linen maybe.

Now if only the snow would melt (sigh).

Happy Spring sewing to you all!