The muslin for the trench coat is complete, so here I am with the first fitting. Overall I'm pleased with the fit. Why the sleeves are so long I haven't a clue. I can safely shorten them by at least 2". The extra 3/4" across each shoulder will allow me to wear this over heavier clothes. In these pics I'm wearing a lightweight fleece with some room to spare.
I don't know if anyone really belts a trench coat. More often than not I see the belt just hanging at the sides or doubled back and fastened behind. I wrapped a belt around myself just to get the visual gist of things. In all honesty I'm not 100% sold on the proportions. The belt seems to bisect the coat right in half. Am I wrong in wishing the coat were longer? Feel free to weigh in on this one.
Here's a closer shot of the collar. I have to admit that the "engineering" of these Japanese patterns is superb. The collar, collar stand and front facings aligned perfectly. Usually I struggle to get one part or the other to match up. Hopefully the real collar will go together as easily as the muslin. This is one of those cases where making the muslin is well worth the time and effort. I'm going to be lining this coat and with some careful engineering I should be able to attach the lining, facing and the collar with a single seam. At least that's the theory right now.
Because of my concern over the coat's length I've done a little trench research. This is an Aquascutum model. It's length from neck to hem is advertised as 94 cm , or 37" . My coat is 37.5 inches, so apparently I'm in the ballpark. BTW the coat above is $720. I think I can come in under that. 
This is a Burberry trench. Again the back length is 37". A similar model is available on Bluefly for $1596. Seriously???? The Brooks Brothers model varies from 38 to 40" in length. Dear readers, what's your opinion? Should I try to eek out a little more length? I'm unfortunately very tight on material, so it may not even be possible. Is it worth the struggle to add just an inch or two? 
You should make it longer if it is possible. Also I think you are right about the belt bisecting the line of the coat. Looking good though!
ReplyDeleteI also think you should make it a little bit longer, but i dont really think the sleeves are too long!!! And the belt on a trench coat is suppose to be knotted (hanging) behind.
ReplyDeleteAnd I suggest to not use contasting buttons!!!
Good Luck!
Boutriack asa a man with scissors
I almost never like belted coats (at least on me) ;). The length looks similar to the examples you posted in terms of where it falls on your body, so if you are going for that above knee length, keep it as is. Again, I have a personal preference for longer lengths, but that's just me :).
ReplyDeleteWill you be padding the shoulders of the jacket? as it is it looks as if it could use a bit of a sloping shoulder adjustment, but if you are putting in pads that may make all the difference. That collar does indeed look very spiffy! :)
I totally hear you about the sloped shoulder adjustment. My plan is to add a wool sleeve head. I'm also thinking that the epaulettes and storm flaps will add some structure and a little "lift" to the shoulders. If that doesn't work I think I can make some small shoulder pads.
ReplyDeleteYes, the belt cuts it in half but on you and Bogie it looks good.
ReplyDeleteShoulder pads yes! But make them small if you will be wearing this over a suit jacket or anything else with pads. Epaulettes and storm flaps, at least on shorter persons, just squash a person and accentuate the natural shoulder slope-- something you don't want to accentuate.
I understand your concern about the bisecting belt- probably intensified by the contrasting fabric?
ReplyDelete