Safari -- The lining

Simplicity 6887 is for an unlined jacket, but making a lining isn't all that hard and will really improve the wearability of this jacket.  I just need to prepare myself mentally for working with polyester acetate, which must have been invented by the devil.  

I'm using a lightweight lining that's been in my stash for almost 2 years.  I bought it in a fabric dive on W 35th St. with a certain celebrity sewing blogger who has a strong dislike of heavy linings.  It was intended for a fall coat (the purple coat), and after getting it home and prewashing it, I decided it was just too wispy for my Maine climate.  So it's been sitting in a bin ever since.  

It's an iridescent brown / blue and will be perfect for this jacket.  

This jacket has a back yoke, so I'm making the lining yoke out of some leftover oxford cloth.  I'm hoping this will beef up the shoulders a bit, plus I just like the contrast.  Both the back yoke and back sections are cut an extra 1" wide to allow for a center back pleat.  

Extra fabric is cut onto the sleeve sections for wearing ease.  This is a technique I learned from the Japanese coat book.  It adds extra ease to the armpit area and prevents rip outs.  I'm not too precise about it.  I just mark an extra 1" to 1.5" with chalk and cut.  Everything eventually gets eased into place. 

After much slipping and sliding of fabric (and cursing) I end up with this.  I have a few details to attend to on the  outside of the coat, namely making and positioning the belt loops.  Then I will tackle attaching the lining and collar.