Thursday, October 8, 2015

Getting Started -- The Halston Shirt Jacket

So here it is, resurrected from 1976, McCall's 5009. I guess it's technically a "leisure suit", but I'm calling it a shirt jacket since I'll only be making the top half.



My inspiration is Peter's shacket of last year. You can see it here. I think he made all the guys in the sewing blogosphere want a shacket of their own. I know it had that effect on me. Structured coats are nice, but we all need that simple, "in between" garment, that can just be tossed on to run out to the mailbox, walk the dog or fill the bird feeders. We're entering prime shacket season here in Maine, so the time is right. I need to get a move on.

I'll tell you one thing, this pattern is huge! There are pattern pieces for two jackets (one is specifically for ultra suede, and wouldn't that be something) plus the trousers. The jackets have some nice touches which appeal to me. There's a real collar on a stand, a back yoke and two piece sleeves.



I'll be making the non-ultrasuede version with a wool blend that's been in my stash for a few years now. It's loden green with a multicolor windowpane plaid. I'm sure Mr. Halston wouldn't approve, but I love the colors and it's not 1976! I bought the fabric in one of those unnamed stores in NYC's garment district. It was up in a cramped second floor loft space for $10 / yard. I've been burned on bargain "wool" in the past, so I was glad when a burn test resulted in the stench of burning hair! I'm sure there's also some nylon or polyester in there too.



Because I want this shacket to slip on easily, I've decided to fully line it with rayon bemberg. I picked this up at my local Jo-Ann's with a 50% off coupon. They usually only have bemberg lining in black, gray and burgundy, but they've branched out and had this beautiful blackberry and a navy blue. Shocking! I'm a huge green / purple fan. The interfaced bits will be done with a lighter weight hair canvas from Fashion Sewing Supply.




I prepped the fabric using the London Shrink method. Strips of an old cotton sheet are soaked, wrung out and placed between the folded wool. The whole mess is then folded up and allowed to sit for several hours (in my case, overnight).




To keep it from drying out too quickly, I like to wrap it in a plastic drop cloth. The moisture in the sheeting is gradually absorbed by the wool. By morning, it's all a uniform dampness. The sheeting is removed and the wool is air dried.


I'm going to make a quick muslin, and then get down to cutting this project out.


Tuesday, September 29, 2015

It's Fall, Let's get Sewing!

Another summer has come and gone, and with the arrival of Fall it's time to get sewing again. I'd taken a break from sewing to work on some household projects this summer, and I confess that they're all pretty much half assed done. The banister got put up, but still needs painting. And the drywall repairs.....well, let's just say that it's not my specialty. It makes such a mess that I talked myself out of doing it repeatedly. It was much easier to cheat on my "summer projects" and sew some Jeds instead!



I made two pair of shorts, which were badly needed. I'd made some pretty crazy clothes in the spring. Fun... Yes... but I was in sore need of some basics.

Both shorts are hacks of Thread Theory's Jedediah pants. There's a tutorial on their blog showing how to remove the back yoke and add welt pockets. This has become my preferred way of making them, not that the original pattern is bad. It's just nice to have a choice. One pair is made up in an olive green linen with fun colorful batik pockets and bias trim. The other is a textured cotton khaki with madras plaid accents on the rear welt pockets. I had fun wearing these with my Watanabe inspired fishing vest, even if I was accused of looking like an extra from Troup Beverly Hills!




I had lots of the khaki cotton left over so I banged out a pair of pants. Again, basics that I really needed. This time I skipped the madras!





I added an extra welt pocket on top of the left side pocket for my cell phone. It's basically a rear welt pocket just turned on its side. It was fun to do, practical, and I like the asymmetry it creates.


The real work of the summer, however, was wrestling a 600 lb. lead keel under the boat. I won't go into all the gory details. I'm just glad that it's finally fit and rolled under the hull one last time, waiting to be bolted on. Hopefully that can happen within the next couple of weeks.





But back to sewing! What's on tap for Fall?




Splash on a ton of Z-14, and dig out those BeeGee's LPs. It's HALSTON, baby!


Thursday, May 28, 2015

Summer Break



I'm going to be taking a little break from sewing. I live in a very quirky little old house (at one time it was the post office of Riggsville, Maine) which desperately needs my attention.


Water damage around a leaking skylight in the bathroom.



A big crack around another skylight in the pantry.




A section of bannister that needs to be built before I fall down the stairs and break my neck.


I look forward to getting back to basics when I return (working exclusively from my stash). Definitely on my list of "to be sewn" ..... A pair of linen shorts, a pair of khaki shorts, a pair of khaki Jeds, and a plaid shirt. That's certainly enough to keep me busy till Fall.


Wishing you all happy sewing. (I'm already in withdrawals!).


Wednesday, May 20, 2015

Time to dial it back

The Watanabe inspired "fishing vest" has been finished for awhile, but I've not had much interest in either photographing it or blogging about it. Basically, I'm just not all that thrilled with the result; something that rarely happens to me.


As much fun as I had drafting my own simple pattern and adding all kinds of " bells and whistles" to it; in the end I took the whole concept too far for my own good. It's just a little too crazy for me, especially when I team the vest and jacket together. It makes me feel way too conspicuous, and that's not a feeling I enjoy. Maybe if I lived in a more urban environment I could pull it off, but here in coastal Maine it's just not working for me.


So... For the record....


The vest is lined with bemberg rayon, and the edges are finished off with bias trim.


The shirt I made for Christmas a few years ago. It goes well with the vest, and I actually like this look.



The back of the vest has a large storm flap which buttons over a largely useless pocket. Grommets and rivets abound.



At the time it was fun. Now I just have second thoughts about it (almost all of it!). Am I headed down the rabbit hole?





I'm still in "wearable" territory, but teetering on the edge.


Get ready to go over the cliff!




Here's where it really starts to unravel for me. I liked the vest over jacket concept by Engineered Garments, but there's just too much going on here. Maybe it needs a solid color to work...or a younger and braver man! Sadly, I just can't feel comfortable wearing the two pieces together. The jacket I like. I'm luke warm to the vest. The combination is completely unsettling, so totally "not me". I just can't bring myself to wear it, so these photos may be the only time this garment is ever seen.







Can I photoshop my way to liking this look? Has this ever happened to you? Where is the line between stylish and clownish?


In the end it's all about the journey. You win some, you lose some. My joy is in the process, the making, the sharing, the learning.



I'll be interested in seeing people's response to this. Surely I'm not the only one who's ended up at this point. From good intentions, to the excitement of creating the physical garment..... only to end up on "unwearable street". Have you been there? Spill.


Tuesday, April 14, 2015

The "What the F was I thinking" Fishing Vest

So, let's start with the inspiration.


Vest over jacket


This is from Engineered Garments of Brooklyn, NY. Their editorial photo spreads are horrendous IMO, but the clothes are beautiful. I had a chance to see them at Napenthes, a store WAY too hip (and expensive!) for me in NYC's Hell's Kitchen neighborhood. Essentially, everything they make is about 10 times more than I would/could ever afford. Just add a zero to the price of anything and you're there. In these instances, being able to sew is a huge advantage. After seeing the genuine article I was convinced that I could duplicate the look for a song.



More inspiration. These vests are by Junya Watanabe, his Spring 2014 collection. I love all the pockets and asymetrical detailing. A patchwork vest on Mr Porter is almost $1200. Mind boggling.


So... The Plan. -- Make a Watenabe inspired vest that can be worn over my knockoff Watenabe jacket, or on its own.







I found this pattern on Etsy and was convinced that it would be perfect. I wish I had the pictures to prove it, but I couldn't have been more WRONG! I made a quick and dirty muslin, and try as I might, I couldn't get it to fit. I was folding it up at the bottom, folding the fronts over, putting darts in the front and back, taking in the side seams, narrowing the shoulders. It was a mess, and way too frustrating to photograph. After wasting an enormous amount of time I finally came to my senses. A true WTF sewing moment if ever there was one. Why didn't I see that I could easily have drafted my own vest pattern based on the front and back pattern pieces of the jacket????


For some reason I've convinced myself that drafting a pattern is beyond my ability. Foolishness.


Within a few minutes I'd traced out a vest shape over the jacket pattern pieces and whipped up a perfectly fitting muslin.



I set about making all the bits and pieces.


Sorry, McCall's 7816, I guess I don't need you after all.


I'll gladly send this pattern to anyone who might like it. It's huge, I can barely stuff it back into the envelope. Vest, shirt and trousers -- sizes 40, 42, 44.





The first coat of topside paint is going on the boat. Funny that I dislike black clothes but love black boats!


Next time a completed vest, and maybe a coat of bottom paint.





Tuesday, March 31, 2015

Thinking Ahead -- Summer Beach Shirt

We're all craving some warmer weather here in northern New England. 40 degrees would be heavenly! How twisted is that??? So to keep myself from going completely crazy I've been working on some summer clothes.


My latest is this cotton shirt.



The "short over long" look, done up in a very lightweight cotton border print. Cotton lawn? Voile? I really don't know the difference. What I do know is that, as much as I love the colors and design, this fabric is a little too sheer for me to feel comfortable wearing. Therefore, I've made a double layer shirt.


I'll leave wearing see-through shirts to these guys!





I wish I'd taken a picture of this fabric before I started cutting it up. It must have been about 60" wide with the pattern clustered in repeating triangle shapes along one edge. In my usual cheapskate ways I only bought 2 yards, which gave me a little less than three repeats of the pattern. Of course, at the time, I wasn't thinking about making a double layer shirt; so I thought that 2 yards would be more than enough for a short sleeved shirt. I had to get very creative with the cutting, which is another way of saying that it took forever to cut this shirt out!





No way to match this bad boy, so I opted for a pullover style with a placket front. This is just the sleeve placket from David Page Coffin's Shirtmaking book on steroids. It's a great example of one skill leading to the next. If you can make a sleeve placket, you can make a placket front shirt of your own design. I went with a simple band collar out of necessity. There just wasn't enough fabric for a collar; and even if there was I think I'd still go for the band.



I do like a left chest pocket on my shirts. This is actually a hack of Roberto Cabrera's back welt pocket for trousers. It makes for a neat french seamed pocket, sandwiched between the two layers of the shirt. Well worth the time spent making it, plus it's just fun to do.




A slit at the side seams of the inner shirt is made by extending the seam allowances an additional 5/8". The extensions are pressed back and edgestitched in place.


A construction shot showing the extensions on the inner shirt. The sleeve and side seams (both layers) are french seamed.






Fabric -- cotton border print $7/ yd. From one of those incredibly cramped fabric stores in NYC

Interfacing -- Light Crisp sew-in from Fashion Sewing Supply

Buttons - Genuine shell from Fashion Sewing Supply. (Ooops, sold out!)


Ridiculously inexpensive and FUN summer beach shirt. I can't wait to wear it!