The frock coat -- back to tailoring

Things are progressing on the frock coat front.  I altered most of the pattern pieces.  Here they are all spread out.  I shortened and narrowed the sleeves, lowered the lapel and increased the back by 1.5 inches.  Again, if you haven't tried the Swedish tracing paper I encourage you to try it.   I'm a true believer.  It's so easy to make alterations with some scraps and a roll of scotch tape.  

Here are some goodies that arrived from B. Black and Sons.  They sell pre-made jacket fronts in in 2 weights of canvas and for both single and double breasted jackets.  These are 2 heavy weight fronts for a size 40.  At $12 for the pair I think this is an incredible bargain.  As much as I enjoyed building and pad stitching the canvas for the "wedding jacket", I wanted to make this project a little easier.  I want this coat to be a cross between outerwear and suit coat.  So I'm pulling the Cabrera tailoring book down off the shelf and picking and choosing which techniques to use.  It's really the beauty of being able to make exactly what one wants, isn't it? 

I also picked up a hip rule and spool of real basting thread that should last a lifetime.  I could wax poetic about the thread but I'll resist.  Just know that it's pure magic to work with.  

Here the front is basted to the canvas in a very specific order.  If you have a touch of OCD you'll love this! 

I decided to add a front chest pocket which is not part of the pattern.  I was surprised at how easy this was to do.  Thank you Roberto Cabrera for this bit of sewing origami!  

This is the real hardcore tailoring, and hopefully the end result will be worth the effort.  Cotton twill tape is stitched to the canvas to define the lapel edges.  The lapel is pad stitched and twill tape is cross stitched over the roll line.  Trust me, there is nothing scary about this stuff.  In fact, it's really fun to do.  Now that the coat fronts are done things should move along quickly.  

Last of the pad stitching

OK, moving along.  The next step is to pad stitch the lapel area.  I was really dreading this for some reason, but it wasn't difficult at all.  I think all the practice on the plastron paid off.  The pad stitching begins along the roll line in parallel lines.  This time, however, the pick stitches will be on the fashion fabric, so an attempt must be made to make them as small as possible.  Fear not, it's not hard to do.  Plus the stitches will be on the back side of the lapel.  After a few rows, maybe an inch into it, the lapel is rolled over into the position it will take on the jacket.  Holding the lapel in position the pad stitching continues in rows until reaching the seam allowance.  The lapel will now have a natural tendency to roll towards the body when the jacket is worn.  Magic! 

The seam allowances of the canvas must now be gingerly cut off.  Talk about nerve wracking.  One slip of the shears and hours of handstitching are down the drain.  Once trimmed, 3/8" twill tape is hand sewn onto the canvas at the seamlines.  A strip is also placed next to the roll line and cross stitched into place.  There's a whole lot of zen going on here.  

Guys who do (and DON'T) pad stitch

Why are these guys on today's post?  Because I bet none of them has ever pad stitched anything in their entire lives!  Maybe I'm dead wrong, but after spending hours with a needle and thread it seems highly unlikely. 

 

Pad stitching is a method of joining multiple layers of fabric so that they act as one, while at the same time maintaining their individual characteristics.  In short, it's the opposite of using fusibles.  The layers of the plastron are pad stitched together in alternating rows of diagonal stitching.  I used red thread in hopes that it would show up in my photos.  Mr. Cabrera is very reassuring about this whole process.  None of this is visible in the finished jacket.  He suggests stitches of about 3/8" but discourages too much fussing.  "DO NOT spend time measuring your stitches.  Just get a general sense of the size, and proceed."  I love this kind of direction!  

The outside of the canvas ends up covered with rows of diagonal stitches.  The inside flannel becomes  peppered with small stitches.  I tried to do this as loosely as possible so as to not make bulky ridges between the rows.  I still ended up with a ridged effect, but I'm not going to agonize over it.  I loved every bit of this process.  At times, I think I enjoy hand sewing more than running things through the sewing machine.  There's just a certain "connectedness" to the fabric that I enjoy.  Plus I feel connected to the entire history of garment construction as both utility and art.  Turn on the radio, or put on a LONG opera and pad stitch away.  

After a gentle pressing the canvas will be basted to the jacket front.  Oh Boy!