Pantone, Progress and Problems

Clearly the Pantone prognosticators were watching me last March at the MPB Winter Frolic! Were they hiding behind the rolls of faux fur at NY Elegant? Did they watch me pick out this fur, knowing that I'm always way ahead of the fashion curve?

 

I picked this.....

 

 

Low and behold.....what do they pick for this Fall's color trends???

 

Potter's Clay and Sharkskin!

 

Of course, I'm being silly here. But I do find it amusing that my current project fits in with their color predictions. Truthfully, I would never have known about their color selections if Peter, over at Male Pattern Boldness, hadn't just finished a great work jacket in Aurora Red. Or is it Cranberry? Maybe Tomato?

 

In the end, who really cares? Certainly not me.

 

 

 

 

I completed the lining, which includes the scavenged swivel clip for my car keys.

 

 

 

 

I took my readers' advice and added a handle. It's not visible here, but the folded ultrasuede is held together with Wonder Tape (another gift from Kyle over at Vacuuming the Lawn). It's " secret weapon #2". It made the assembly so much easier. I added a couple of rivets for added reinforcement (plus, I just love using them).

 

The Janome had no difficulty sewing through all the layers here, which are considerable!

 

 

 

The drawstring is also attached with rivets. It's actually easier than the directions, which say to sew through all layers along the stitching line of the drawstring.

 

 

 

 

The upper band of ultrasuede is interfaced with a midweight fusible Pelon product that I picked up at JoAnn's. I have to say that I've been spoiled by the interfacings from Fashion Sewing Supply. However, the ones I had on hand all fuse at high temps, and I was worried about melting the faux suede. JoAnn's was the expedient choice, but it's hard not to feel that I paid a price "performance wise" with what I purchased there. When I make my next bag (I'm sure there'll be another) I'll take the time to order in some better products.

 

 

 

Setting the grommets was much easier than I had imagined. I bought this set on Etsy. Basically... Punch hole, insert the hardware, place on base and pound with a hammer. Tout fini!

 

 

 

 

I took my new backpack on a test drive this afternoon. I had a service appointment for my car which would take about 1 hour. I packed my iPad, Kindle and ear phones into their appropriate slots and headed out. A pretty significant problem became immediately noticeable.

 

Because the lining is only attached at the very top edge of the bag, the weight of items in the pockets allows them to shift around, mostly front to back. When than happens the top of the pack gets pulled down. It gives the impression that the backpack is collapsing in on itself. Not a good look!

 

Upon returning home I went to work correcting the problem. I secured the lining to the back panel of the exterior bag with four rivets. Not the easiest thing to do with the bag all assembled, but where there's a will there's a way. No more shifting lining, (and it looks good too!).

 

 

Next time....the completed backpack. Here's a little tease.

 

 

 

 

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Backpack Crush!

 

 

Oh, MIchael, you may not dig the hairy forearm look, but I'm totally crushing on your hairy / fur backpack for Fall 2016.

 

 

Talk about "Love at First Sight" !!!

 

 

 

Even though this backpack is plastered all over MK's website, I can't find it for sale anywhere. NOT that I would ever be able to afford it. The closest thing I can find is a black shearling version at Saks for $798. Yes, people have that much $$$ to blow on a backpack.

 

My mission is to create my own version which, admittedly, is whole lot more fun. Plus, this will be my first foray into bag making.

 

 

 

I started collecting the materials for this project at Peter's MPB Winter Frolic back in March. (I'm hoping for a repeat in 2017!). I purchased a half yard of faux fur at NY Elegant on W 40th St. They have a huge selection of furry delights up in the mezzanine. Their inventory truly runs from the sublime to the downright ridiculous. Don't, however, expect to find any "bargains" here. Sometimes a splurge is in order. And somehow, having so many furs to choose from can justify the price of admission. I fell hard for this silver tipped number with a rust undercolor that's revealed when the fabric folds. I wish you could feel how deliciously soft it is. Yummy!

 

I've gradually been collecting the other bits and pieces I'll need. I'm going to substitute gray ultrasuede for the leather portions of the MK bag. The webbing is actually a better match than it appears in these photos. Trust me, it's not lavender! I still need to get a grommet kit and 3/8" grommets. I'm also reconsidering some of my hardware choices. There are lots of options out there! Swivel clips, D rings and slides, Oh MY!

 

I've also hit JoAnn's for some interfacing and stiffening products I'm not familiar with. Pellon Shapeflex (which is a fusible stiffener for the back and bottom), and Pellon Thermolam (a fleecy fusible that I'll pad the lining with). If anyone has experience with these please chime in!

 

 

I looked around on the Internet and Etsy and settled on this pattern. The Lucy backpack from Swoon Sewing Patterns. It has the overall shape of the MK, a drawstring top with grommets and a good sized flap. It has some features I don't like, but those are easy to omit. I'll configure the inside to suit my needs. Basically, a padded pocket to hold my iPad, one small zippered compartment and other open pockets for pens, checkbook, fabric swatches etc.

 

 

I picked up a remnant of upholstery tapestry for $2 at Goodwill and banged out a rough "muslin". The directions were well illustrated and very easy to follow. Kudos to Swoon!

 

 

I poked holes in the top band to simulate grommets and threaded some SnugHug through to get the gist of the drawstring. It really helps me to work through all this in advance, especially since I've deviated from the pattern in places.

 

 

This is just some twill tape to simulate the straps.

 

Overall, I think I'm off to a good start. The bag may be just a touch on the small side, so I may lengthen it by an inch or two. The next step is to research how to work with faux fur. I hear I'll need a good vacuum cleaner!

 

My sewing and blogging has really taken a backseat to the boat this summer. I'm really wanting to have the whole project wrapped up before the snow flies, but there are days when I have my doubts. Recently I've been making the spars (mast, boom, gaff and jib club). Basically, planing and sanding square stock into round parts. I'm pleased with the results, but can't honestly say that any of it has been fun.

 

Bring on the backpack!

 

 

 

 

 

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Blazer of 2016, The Struggle to Launch

 

I've assembled everything I need for this project, but.......my tailoring mojo has decided to go on vacation somewhere. So while I wait for it to come back, I'll share where things currently stand.

 

First up.... Things to make tailoring a jacket easier.

 

Never underestimate the power of thread! If you don't already own a spool of #40 cotton basting thread, go out and get one now. It's amazing how something so simple can make such a huge difference in your sewing. It's virtually tangle free, so it makes basting a breeze rather than an exercise in frustration. Soon, you'll be basting everything.

Another tangle free wonder is silk thread. There's a considerable amount of hand sewing in a tailored jacket so if one can make it easier, why not? Do the mere words "pad stitching" strike fear into your heart? Fear not. Silk thread will make it a walk in the park.

These spools are sitting on some black pocketing that I picked up at Steinlauf and Stoller during the MPB Winter Frolic. It has a woven in stripe. Classy and silly inexpensive, $7/ yd. The gold silk thread won't see all that much use. I'll use it for pickstitching the lining.

P

 

Other supplies that make life easier are premade sleeve heads (on the left), and premade hair canvas jacket fronts (right). The jacket fronts are sold by the chest size, and are very reasonable. I think about $12 / pair. Sure, you can make your own, and they may be superior, but you will pay much more just for the materials. In the end, I'm just not that much of a tailoring purist.

 

Materials in hand, I turn to the pattern.....

 

 

This pattern is from 1969. Purchased on Etsy. This pattern is unusual in the very small world of men's patterns, because it doesn't have darts running down the center of the jacket fronts. Instead, the darts extend from under the arm. This makes it the ideal pattern for a plaid jacket. The plaid is uninterrupted the entire length of the front. And for the truly ambitious, the pocket flaps can be matched as well!

 

 

Maybe someday I'll attempt a plaid jacket. That thought is driving me to "perfect" the fitting of this pattern to the best of my ability; knowing full well that perfection isn't really in my DNA. Unfortunately, it hasn't gotten off to a very good start. It's gonna take some serious mojo. More of the struggle next time.

 

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Projects in the Pipeline

I'm not very good at following sewing blogs. Sure, I have a few favorites, but mostly I just meander from blog to blog. I never know what I might find, and that's part of the fun. Brew a pot of coffee and settle in. A few weeks ago I stumbled upon this....totally by chance.

 

 

This is a sew-along / challenge being sponsored by an amazing "brother of the cloth", Jamie Kemp in England. You can find all the details at his blog -- Male Devon Sewing.

 

Jamie's blasted out of the starting gate, and I swear he's half done already! He's already pad stitching like a madman. But never fear, the challenge of sewing a menswear blazer extends into June. Plenty of time for me (the world's slowest sewist) to play along.

 

I'm hoping to drag my sewing buddy Enrique along for the ride. Enrique, are you listening???? And, if you're reading this, consider yourself invited along as well. I'll be using Roberto Cabrera's menswear tailoring book (which has become a ridiculously hefty investment). I'll share his techniques and we'll take it step by step. So unleash your tailoring geek and join in!

 

My plan is to make a traditional black blazer that can be worn year round. Black wool with the full compliment of gold buttons. Think this....

 

 

Or maybe ????

 

Um... Right

 

 

My biggest problem when it comes to sewing, is that I'd really rather be attempting to make this....

 

Or...

 

And therein lies my problem of never having appropriate clothes to wear for my "real life". So it's black schoolboy blazer to the rescue! Balmain will have to wait (but do check out the Fall 2016 lineup, artistry that boggles the mind!). Want more...check out the video.

 

Barring a huge blizzard, I'm hoping to pick up fabrics for this project at the MPB Winter Frolic. In the meantime I'm working on another Athleisure project. This time a hoodie vest. (One pair of sweatpants turned out to be enough).

 

I'm having a devil of a time to get this damn thing to fit, which at the outset I thought would be a walk in the park. It looks so simple, right? But more about that later. I hope your sewing projects are going better than this damn vest!

 

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