Showing posts with label Edna Bishop. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Edna Bishop. Show all posts

Thursday, December 15, 2011

Hemming -- (yawn)

OK, I know, this isn't exactly exciting stuff.  I've described this process on other coats, so this is primarily for the benefit of my sew-alonger.  These techniques are taken from The Bishop Method of Clothing Construction, a book from 1959 that I refer to often.  The author, Edna Bishop, comes across as an imposing but somehow lovable tyrant.  

Here goes. 


The cuff is turned up and pressed.  The hem on the sleeve is 1.5 inches.  A 2.5 inch wide strip of bias cut haircanvas is placed in the hem so that 1 inch of canvas extends beyond the raw edge of the sleeve.   I baste it temporarily in place.  The edge of the sleeve is then stitched to the canvas with a 1/4" seam allowance.  This is much easier to do on a free arm machine.  On my 301 it's a PITA.  



The hem is turned up and the canvas is slip stitched to the sleeve.  This produces a cuff with a little "oomph" to it.  I think this is desirable on any outerwear.  


The hem of the coat is treated in a similar manner.  At the hem, however, a 2.5 in. strip of bias cut muslin is inserted.  

The muslin should run in under the facings and vent flaps just a bit.  Maybe 1/2"  .  Again the muslin is stitched 1/4" from the raw edge of coat fabric.  


The muslin is then slip stitched to the body of the coat.  I don't have a picture, but the raw edges of the facings and vent flaps are cross stitched to the turned up hem.  It might not look pretty, but it will eventually be almost entirely covered by the lining.  

Monday, May 31, 2010

A gift from Harriet Swinger



I really need to dust off, or ( in the case of Maine right now) blow the pollen off this blog.  Even though I haven't posted anything for 10 days, lots has been happening with the coat project.  I guess you have to call it serendipity.  The perfect book has come to me from my partner Martin's late mom, Harriet.  The Bishop Method of Clothing Construction , Circa 1959.  Holy smokes, here is more technical information on the true ART of sewing than I will ever be able to absorb.  It's both fascinating and terrifying all at the same time.  The one theme that repeats over and over in this book is "PERFECTION".  Apparently if I can achieve grain perfection, cut to perfection, stitch to perfection and press to perfection I will eliminate "the fireside touch".  This seems like a lot to live up to, but there's no turning back now.  Miss Edna Bryte Bishop and I are in it for the long haul.  Thank you, Harriet for this most wonderful gift.  PS  Muslin #2 is complete and will have its unveiling next.