The 8 degree (-13 C) photo shoot.

The "not so much wool" pea coat is finished!  

 

It was 8 degrees here in Maine today, so I'm wearing a flannel shirt, wool sweater and scarf under the coat.  On a day like today I'm very glad I decided to add the flannel underlining to the back.  I think it really made a difference.  

Here is the back view.  I'm pleased with the fit across the shoulders, and thankful that there's enough room for a few extra layers underneath it all.  

Here are some shots as the sun is fading.  The collar on this coat is huge, and when flipped up will really keep the biting winds out.  

So completes the Japanese pea coat.  I think I'll be getting a lot of use from this coat.  Up until now I've been wearing my frock coat (which I LOVE), but our weather has been unusually warm.  Sooner or later reality has to strike.  When it does, this will be my "go to" coat.  

At this point I've completed all 4 of the designs in the Japanese coat book.  Last year I thought I was just making a toggle coat, and look what happened!  I hope that my experiences will encourage other amateur sewist to tackle outerwear and tailoring.  Truly, if I can do it, anyone can.  

Right now, I just want to get warm and think of my next project.  

Making the pattern pieces

After months of just looking at the pretty pictures it was time to pull out the pattern.  Thanks to many web sites I was pretty well prepared for what it would look like.  Still, that initial once over is pretty shocking.  All the pattern pieces, in all 4 sizes,  overlap each other in random directions. So, unlike an American pattern where each piece can be cut out of tissue paper, I will have to make my own patterns from the pattern sheet.  A website somewhere recommended a product called Swedish Tracing Paper which is available through Amazon.  It comes in a roll of 10 yards x 29" and resembles a very lightweight interfacing.  It's terrific stuff and I would highly recommend that you try it.  It's so much better than that flimsy easy to rip tissue paper.  Apparently the stuff can actually be sewed to make a muslin, but I'm going the traditional route.  Plus I don't want to go through the extra step of having to take it all apart when it's time to cut the fabric.  

Ok, here is my process.  First I locate a piece that I need. In my case I will only need the coat back, front and sleeves to make the muslin.  (I later added the hood to better define and reinforce the neckline) Remember! .....  THE PATTERN DOES NOT INCLUDE THE SEAM ALLOWANCES! So I added 5/8"  allowances to the sides and 1 1/2" hems for the sleeves and coat bottom.  Since hindsight is always 20/20, I wish I had made all the vertical seam allowances 1" .  This would have given me more room for alterations.  The layout guide shows all the seam allowances (metric of course! sigh), so I also consult it frequently for any oddities.  (On my coat something funky is happening at the front lower hem which I will figure out later. While tracing you may encounter little marks perpendicular to the sewing lines labeled with the size.  These, I have discovered, are matching points, so I mark and cut the little triangles that appear on American patterns.   I  mark the grain lines and write myself notes on the pieces.  The tracing paper is very durable and forgiving.  When I screw up it's very easy to tape on a piece and keep going.  

When I learn exactly HOW SMALL Japanese men are!

Fabric in hand, it's time to pull out the pattern and get down to business.  My pattern has sizes S - XL , a size chart and figures of a man showing chest, waist, arm and height.  Using my handy dandy dashboard converter I find that the chest measurement for Size M (which I consider myself to be) is only 35" - 37".  Yikes!  I will have to go all the way to Size XL ( 38" - 40" chest) to get even close to my 40" chest measurement.  Clearly I'm going to have to learn how to alter a pattern if this coat is ever to fit me.  I will start by making the basic pattern pieces using the XL lines, sew up a muslin and see just how SMALL this coat is going to be.  Wish me luck! 

Sorry, I don't do metric

The unit converter widget on the iMac dashboard has become my best friend.  If you study the fabric layout diagrams carefully you will see where the fabric has been folded.  There are a couple of different layouts for the coat that I'm making.  One with 58" wide fabric and one with 36" wide fabric.  36"???  That must be the imported Italian cashmere at a mere $189 per yard.  (More on that funny story later) I converted all the lengths and widths to inches and yards, wrote them in my pattern book and took the whole mess with me on my shopping expedition.  

Since I don't read Japanese, I've made some assumptions.  The dot pattern on pieces like the pocket flap, sleeve tab and front facing must mean that those pieces are interfaced.  And since parts like the pocket, yoke, and pocket flap appear twice, one must be a lining.  Makes sense to me.  

Setting the stage

This is my small studio where all the magic will happen (and great amounts of Peet's French Roast will be consumed) . Trust me, it's not as pristine as when this picture was taken.

I have already started the project. In fact, the muslin is already sewn.  So these first few posts will get everyone caught up to speed. 

 

This is my first ever blog, and I will attempt to include all the sites and sources that have helped me up to this point. Hopefully, they will be helpful to you as well.   

Introduction

I am a gay man living on the coast of Maine. I can honestly say that I have a fabulous and rich life. Maine is a beautiful place, but the winters here are damp, cold and worst of all...... LONG. Next winter I hope to be staying warm in a well fitting, well made coat that I've crafted myself.

This whole project developed quite unexpectedly. I have an adult daughter in CA who is a textile design graduate of the California College of the Arts. Her enthusiasm for all things fabric is truly inspirational. There is nothing I love more than prowling the garment district in NYC looking for amazing things that she cannot find in the Bay Area. But NYC is a good 6-7 hours drive from here, and I don't get there all that often. Because I could not get to NYC before Valentine's day this year, I turned to Ebay. I was thinking some vintage sewing patterns would be right up her alley. It was there that I stumbled upon a pattern book of Japanese fashions. "Cute Clothes without Hemming" Brilliant for my artist daughter. But what else did this seller have? "Sewing Men's Coats" Gorgeous pictures of a classic trench coat, a peacoat and a camelhair duffle coat. I ordered both books and they arrived from Japan in about 2 weeks.

I'm not sure if my daughter has attempted anything from her book, but I'm ready to dive into the deep end of the pool. I invite you to follow along on this sartorial adventure. Oh, and if you have one of these pattern books but have lacked the courage to start...... Let's do it together.