Tuesday, April 14, 2015

The "What the F was I thinking" Fishing Vest

So, let's start with the inspiration.


Vest over jacket


This is from Engineered Garments of Brooklyn, NY. Their editorial photo spreads are horrendous IMO, but the clothes are beautiful. I had a chance to see them at Napenthes, a store WAY too hip (and expensive!) for me in NYC's Hell's Kitchen neighborhood. Essentially, everything they make is about 10 times more than I would/could ever afford. Just add a zero to the price of anything and you're there. In these instances, being able to sew is a huge advantage. After seeing the genuine article I was convinced that I could duplicate the look for a song.



More inspiration. These vests are by Junya Watanabe, his Spring 2014 collection. I love all the pockets and asymetrical detailing. A patchwork vest on Mr Porter is almost $1200. Mind boggling.


So... The Plan. -- Make a Watenabe inspired vest that can be worn over my knockoff Watenabe jacket, or on its own.







I found this pattern on Etsy and was convinced that it would be perfect. I wish I had the pictures to prove it, but I couldn't have been more WRONG! I made a quick and dirty muslin, and try as I might, I couldn't get it to fit. I was folding it up at the bottom, folding the fronts over, putting darts in the front and back, taking in the side seams, narrowing the shoulders. It was a mess, and way too frustrating to photograph. After wasting an enormous amount of time I finally came to my senses. A true WTF sewing moment if ever there was one. Why didn't I see that I could easily have drafted my own vest pattern based on the front and back pattern pieces of the jacket????


For some reason I've convinced myself that drafting a pattern is beyond my ability. Foolishness.


Within a few minutes I'd traced out a vest shape over the jacket pattern pieces and whipped up a perfectly fitting muslin.



I set about making all the bits and pieces.


Sorry, McCall's 7816, I guess I don't need you after all.


I'll gladly send this pattern to anyone who might like it. It's huge, I can barely stuff it back into the envelope. Vest, shirt and trousers -- sizes 40, 42, 44.





The first coat of topside paint is going on the boat. Funny that I dislike black clothes but love black boats!


Next time a completed vest, and maybe a coat of bottom paint.