A blog born from the desire for a winter coat in a color other than black. With limited sewing experience and no knowledge of Japanese I've worked through all the patterns in Ryuichiro Shimazaki's book on men's coats. If I can do it, anyone can! But the challenges continue. Join me as I continue to explore the world of menswear. I AM my own luxury brand!
Monday, June 28, 2010
Getting out of a bind
Ok. This pattern, as published, is for an unlined coat. All the seams call for bias tape to cover the raw edges. I really can't imagine wearing an unlined wool coat, so I guess it must be something Japanese. Anyway, I plan on lining the coat with the exception of the hood. I don't think I've ever seen anyone wearing this style of coat who would be caught dead with the hood up. Maybe in a blizzard when you're trying to dig the car out of a ditch. I see the hood as more of a built in scarf / big floppy collar. I have decided to leave it unlined. Thankfully this will be the ONLY unlined part of the coat. I have never worked with bias tape before and found it moderately difficult to sew well. Because my fabric is fairly thick it just barely covered the raw edges. I did try a wider width, but it made the seams too stiff and inflexible. I ended up hand basting the seam binding to the edges and then stitching with the machine. The seam allowances were then pressed to one side and topstitched down. Time consuming, but in the end worth it. I'm just very glad I don't have to do every seam of the entire coat.
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