Tuesday, October 23, 2012
Tartan tuxedo update
Things have moved ahead nicely on the tuxedo shirt.
I did tons of matching on the fronts of the shirt, but there are parts of a man's shirt where matching is impractical if not completely out of the question. The center back box pleat makes matching the yoke impossible, so it's better to cut it on the bias. I did, however, center the plaid on the fold while cutting it out. The collar is also centered and lines up nicely with the box pleat. Silly? Obsessive? Maybe, but making my own shirts has made me care about such details.
The sleeve placket is another place where it's just easier to "un-match". I use the template from Coffin's book on shirtmaking. It makes something that looks complicated surprisingly easy. I think it also adds a little pizzaz.
The collar is always the biggest bugaboo for me. I had such good luck with a collar stay slot on the linen tux shirt that I tried it again. The point collar shape made the placement awkward, and I totally forgot to allow for the 1/4" topstitching. The end result -- the stay doesn't go very deeply into the slot. Still, it works, so it's not a total failure. Just another "live and learn" sewing experience.
The basting has been removed from the pleats, and I'm totally loving them. They were worth every minute of pressing, basting and slip-stitching.
All that remains is buttonholes and buttons.