Tuesday, September 17, 2013

Plodding Along

There's been very little momentum with my velvet jacket project. It seems I just get started and, Bam! Something comes up. Most recently my daughter and her boyfriend visited from California. I had a wonderful time with them and, trust me, lobster rolls and craft beers trump sewing any day!



Lunch at the Kennebec Tavern being posted to facebook no doubt.



Smile, you're in Maine! No visit to Dad's is complete without a corny photo-op at LL Bean. Thanks Meredith and Evan for being such great sports.

But all good things eventually come to an end, and it's time to get back to the Belgian Chef's Jacket.

With the sleeves completed, it's time to tackle the lining. The pattern is for an unlined jacket so I'm just making it up as I go along. It's really not that difficult to do, just a few simple modifications to the original pattern pieces. Anyone who's followed this blog knows how much I hate working with polyester acetate. So it becomes just a matter of "manning up" and getting on with it. Here goes...



Using the pattern pieces I chalk on an additional 1" at the center back for a pleat. I also add some additional fabric at the armscye, knowing that I'll have to handstitch the armscye lining seam. I'd much rather trim fabric away than have too little.






I drafted a velvet back neck facing which is reinforced with Light Crisp Sew-in Interfacing from Fashion Sewing Supply. (Insert rave about their products here).



My worries about cutting the metalic brocade fabric were completely unfounded. It's much more durable than it looks. Just to be on the safe side, I ran the edges though my little Bernette serger to prevent ravelling. Then I basted on a layer of the Light Crisp interfacing, which should provide more than enough body for the "lapel". I'm loving the fluid "floppy" character of the velvet, so I find myself moving towards a more unconstructed look. More shirt, less jacket.




I've attached the brocade facing to the lining just at the top (the neck edge). As construction continues I'll cross stitch the edge of the facing to the back of the jacket's center front panel. This will hold it in place. The lining will then be slip stitched into place. Fortunately, I actually enjoy handstitching.


So here's the completed lining.



And just for fun, here's the lining roughly pinned into the jacket body.



I love getting a little sneak peek of the finished garment, and it always motivates me to charge towards the finish line. I may feel that I'm just plodding along, but there's hope for this jacket yet. This is a very different style for me (almost, dare I say, out of my comfort zone), but I'm genuinely happy with the way things are looking so far. Next step will be adding the collar.



In the meantime, the boat languishes :(

5 comments:

  1. Looking great so far -- that velvet is sumptuous!

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  2. i get so excited every time i see a new picture of your boat - i hope you have more time to work on it soon! <3

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  3. Absolutely stunning: the coat, the boat and your daughter with her boyfriend

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  4. Looks like you've made some progress on the jacket. Have you worked with bemburg rayon lining before? It's so easy to use that it might be worth the extra cost to you. I love it.
    When do we get a post about the similarities between boatmaking and garment making?

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