Tuesday, September 16, 2014

The Last Hurrah of Summer Sewing

I don't know what it's like where you live, but summer has come to a screeching halt here in Maine. I'm sitting in front of a little electric heater as I write this. It seems almost silly to be blogging about clothes that most likely won't get worn again until next summer. Bear with me, but here goes.

 

I managed to bang out two pairs of linen shorts in time for the Labor Day wedding. Both are Thread Theory's Jedediah pattern. One pair is made according to the pattern, with back yoke and patch pockets. The other is made without the yoke, it has back darts and welt pockets. Here is a link to a tutorial on the Thread Theory website that shows how to make this change. The Jedediah pattern is already my "go to" pant pattern. Having the ability to change the back pockets makes it even more indispensable.

 

First up, the patch pocket version.

 

The patch pockets are finished off with gingham bias binding.

 

 

Here I'm wearing them with my new linen camp shirt.

The Jeds shorts can be rolled up to expose the binding at the side seams. I tried it, but decided it just wasn't working for me. I'll leave that look to younger guys with better legs!

 

The patch pockets are placed a little higher than specified in the pattern. It just works and feels better for me. I added a little gingham tag just for fun.

 

 

Here is the welt pocket version in process. The Thread Theory tutorial shows how to redraft the back and add the dart. It also details how to construct the pocket. I opted to use Roberto Cabrera's pocket instructions because I'm more familiar with them. Either way, it looks complicated but it's WAY easier than you might think.

 

 

I have an earlier PDF of the Jeds pattern, and have changed the sequence of sewing them up. I make all the pockets first and then move on to the fly. I sew just a few inches of the crotch seam. It keeps everything flat, and makes constructing the fly much easier. Once the fly is finished I sew the flat felled inseams. Then I move on to the outer seams. It will look the picture above. I leave the crotch seam till last.

 

Here is the completed inside. It takes a yard of cotton fabric, a batik in this case, to make the pockets and bias binding for a pair of Jeds. This batik was only $5. Well worth the additional expense and time spent to have such a fun finish on the inside. I love it.

 

I'm a big brown / purple combination fan.

That's it for summer sewing. In retrospect I accomplished a lot this season. A suit, two shirts, two pairs of shorts and a last minute pair of cargo pants. I still have material for another pair of shorts, but I'm totally over them. Into the stash it goes until next spring.

 

On the horizon....

 

 

Dark brown velvet Jeds with a somewhat William Morris fabric for the pockets and trim. Fall has arrived!

 

10 comments:

  1. Beautiful shorts, my husband is very envious.

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  2. Wonderful - and beautifully finished! I love your purple and brown (ombre?) shirt too!

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  3. The shorts look great. The finishing details are sharp!

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  4. Great job! I am amazed at the quality of your work.

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  5. Those are great! Beautiful details on the inside and outside.

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  6. Wow. Those are great shorts and I love the camp shirt. It all looks so good. As far as weather, you could come to LA this week. It's still very hot here

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  7. I am inspired by your attention to detail - I love the finishes on your seams and the fun use of other fabrics. You have great taste and fine skills. In the Pacific Northwest, we are about to enter the long, gloomy, rainy months ahead, after a magnificent summer. This is the time of the year that I miss New England most. Enjoy the foliage.

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  8. These are fantastic! I love all your fun, bright, pocket and bias binding details! I'm also a fan of the Jeds pattern for my man. It's one of the best! I'm really loving the darted and welt pocketed version you did here. Have to keep that in mind for future Jeds!

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  9. Such great color combinations. I love the finishing details. I really think your brown velvet and shirt are going to turn out to be a great outfit.

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