More "Kitty" construction

Warning: Shirtmaking geek alert!

Purrrring along here in "Hello Kitty" world. With the fronts completed I turn my attention to the back and yoke. I've decided to eliminate the center box pleat at the back, so things are pretty simple here.

 

 

 

My plan all along has been to use the gingham as a contrasting inner yoke. One problem though.... The tana lawn is so sheer that the gingham shows through. To solve that problem I basted in an interlining of white batiste. Problem solved. Not only is the transparency issue fixed, but the whole yoke is more substantial.

 

 

What's going on here? This is the much beloved "burrito method" of attaching the yoke to the shirt fronts. It works like a charm, and gives a professional finish to the inside of the shirt. It's really an indispensable technique in any shirtmaker's bag of tricks.

 

 

I added a pocket to the upper right sleeve just for fun. I tried it with a flap like the front pockets, but decided it was just too much. A simple band with a button seems better. If I had an iPod, this would be the perfect place to stash it.

 

 

 

 

The bottom panel is attached to the shirt fronts with a flat felled seam. Pressing the seam upwards allowed me to trim out the bulk of the plackets.

 

 

 

Inside, everything is finished off. No raw edges for this guy!

 

 

The lavender gingham is used as a contrasting inner cuff. I can't topstitch a curved cuff to save my life, so I just lop off a corner at an angle. Works for me!

 

 

 

 

When the sleeves are rolled up, the lavender color is brought up higher on the shirt. It helps balance off the green of the pocket flaps and contrasting placket.

 

 

 

What's this? This is the Pam Erny method of turning collar points. This has become my preferred method and I think it gives the sharpest point. (Shirtmakers start to get obsessive over such things!). A loop of thread is sewn into the seam while the collar is being assembled. After turning the collar the loop is gently pulled and the collar point pops out. Voila!

 

 

 

The collar and band are interfaced with Prowoven Light Crisp Fusible from Fashion Sewing Supply. Their interfacings are frequently on sale, and I highly recommend having an arsenal of different weights in your stash.

Even with a white interfacing the collar was too transparent. Using the gingham for the undercollar gave a more consistent look. I use Peter's (of Male Pattern Boldness fame) method of attaching the collar and stand. Tutorial here.

 

Have I mentioned that I stink at sewing curves? My TNT pattern has curved tails. I usually fold them over about 1/4" twice and stitch them. It's always a struggle, and my results are average at best. It's a good incentive to keep my shirts tucked in!

 

The dilemma presented by this shirt is how to deal with tails that are intentionally untucked. My solution is to finish off the lower edge with a bias binding, something I've never attempted before.

 

 

 

Clover bias gizmo to the rescue! This is the 12mm size, which produces a binding about 1/4" wide.

 

 

 

I trimmed off the 5/8" seam allowance at the bottom edge, basted the binding in place and then edge stitched it on. A little time consuming....Yes. But I think the final result was well worth it. Not only is it neater than my usual method, but it adds some weight to the hem.

 

 

Spring is right around the corner!!!

 

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