A blog born from the desire for a winter coat in a color other than black. With limited sewing experience and no knowledge of Japanese I've worked through all the patterns in Ryuichiro Shimazaki's book on men's coats. If I can do it, anyone can! But the challenges continue. Join me as I continue to explore the world of menswear. I AM my own luxury brand!
Thursday, September 23, 2010
The agony of grain perfection defeat
Getting this project off the ground has been a challenge. It should have been cut out and half sewn by now. Hmmm. wasn't this supposed to be my Fall coat? The sticking point has been that, try as I might, I can't align the grain of this fabric. Nothing so far has been easy. The weft fibers on this brushed twill are very fine and fragile, so I was unable to pull a thread across the width of the cloth. Instead I had to tear the fabric. But what I assumed would be a little 1/2" strip turned into a whopping triangular hunk about 8" wide. With the ends basted together a la Edna Bishop the fabric skews off on an impossible angle. Hopefully the pictures give you the idea. I immediately ran to the Pattern Review message board and received a variety of responses on how to remedy this problem. The most common suggestion was to dampen the whole mess and try to stretch / coax it back into shape. Using the London Shrink method I rewet the cloth and struggled with it for over an hour. All the pulling, smoothing and swearing was to no avail. Then I attempted to subdue the beast with the iron. I surrender! There is just no way to turn this giant twill parallelogram into a neat perfectly aligned rectangle. Sorry Edna! I've folded the cloth down the center, aligned the selvedges and will cut out the imperfect coat.
Subscribe to:
Post Comments (Atom)
Duane, if the fabric is so radically off-grain, I'd get some different fabric. Where did you pick it up?
ReplyDeleteIs it really that off-grain? I thought that twill sometimes won't rip straight because of the diagonal weave. (maybe I'm on glue.) Is it possible to trace the grain with a needle and contrasting thread somewhere around where the fold line should be?
ReplyDeleteI'd dump that fabric so fast it would make your head spin. Get a grain!
ReplyDeletePeter, I picked this up @ Peron's half price bargain annex. Guess there was a reason!
ReplyDeleteSO make the coat and just lean in one direction or the other so nobody will notice the grain is off!
ReplyDelete