Tuesday, October 18, 2011
The frock coat -- back to tailoring
Things are progressing on the frock coat front. I altered most of the pattern pieces. Here they are all spread out. I shortened and narrowed the sleeves, lowered the lapel and increased the back by 1.5 inches. Again, if you haven't tried the Swedish tracing paper I encourage you to try it. I'm a true believer. It's so easy to make alterations with some scraps and a roll of scotch tape.
Here are some goodies that arrived from B. Black and Sons. They sell pre-made jacket fronts in in 2 weights of canvas and for both single and double breasted jackets. These are 2 heavy weight fronts for a size 40. At $12 for the pair I think this is an incredible bargain. As much as I enjoyed building and pad stitching the canvas for the "wedding jacket", I wanted to make this project a little easier. I want this coat to be a cross between outerwear and suit coat. So I'm pulling the Cabrera tailoring book down off the shelf and picking and choosing which techniques to use. It's really the beauty of being able to make exactly what one wants, isn't it?
I also picked up a hip rule and spool of real basting thread that should last a lifetime. I could wax poetic about the thread but I'll resist. Just know that it's pure magic to work with.
Here the front is basted to the canvas in a very specific order. If you have a touch of OCD you'll love this!
I decided to add a front chest pocket which is not part of the pattern. I was surprised at how easy this was to do. Thank you Roberto Cabrera for this bit of sewing origami!
This is the real hardcore tailoring, and hopefully the end result will be worth the effort. Cotton twill tape is stitched to the canvas to define the lapel edges. The lapel is pad stitched and twill tape is cross stitched over the roll line. Trust me, there is nothing scary about this stuff. In fact, it's really fun to do. Now that the coat fronts are done things should move along quickly.