Thursday, May 3, 2012

Safari -- The lining

Simplicity 6887 is for an unlined jacket, but making a lining isn't all that hard and will really improve the wearability of this jacket.  I just need to prepare myself mentally for working with polyester acetate, which must have been invented by the devil.  

I'm using a lightweight lining that's been in my stash for almost 2 years.  I bought it in a fabric dive on W 35th St. with a certain celebrity sewing blogger who has a strong dislike of heavy linings.  It was intended for a fall coat (the purple coat), and after getting it home and prewashing it, I decided it was just too wispy for my Maine climate.  So it's been sitting in a bin ever since.  

It's an iridescent brown / blue and will be perfect for this jacket.  

This jacket has a back yoke, so I'm making the lining yoke out of some leftover oxford cloth.  I'm hoping this will beef up the shoulders a bit, plus I just like the contrast.  Both the back yoke and back sections are cut an extra 1" wide to allow for a center back pleat.  

Extra fabric is cut onto the sleeve sections for wearing ease.  This is a technique I learned from the Japanese coat book.  It adds extra ease to the armpit area and prevents rip outs.  I'm not too precise about it.  I just mark an extra 1" to 1.5" with chalk and cut.  Everything eventually gets eased into place. 

After much slipping and sliding of fabric (and cursing) I end up with this.  I have a few details to attend to on the  outside of the coat, namely making and positioning the belt loops.  Then I will tackle attaching the lining and collar.  


  1. lloks great! I love this details photos!
    go on!
    liebste Grüsse

  2. "polyester acetate, which must have been invented by the devil"
    so true.

  3. Thanks for sharing the tip on extra fabric for ease in the sleeves. I will try that on my next coat project.