Wednesday, September 7, 2011

Tackling the details

The details of this coat have been both challenging and fun.  All of the small parts are made first and then they get incorporated into the larger seams that actually turn it all into a coat.  

Here are the epaulettes and the right front storm flap.  I've become a "baste-a-holic" after making the wedding jacket, so you'll see that things are basted into position.  Basting has really improved the quality of my work, and it beats the hell out of getting my fingers stuck with pins constantly.  

There are straps at the cuffs that will button into position.  

I've constructed an inside left chest pocket, which is a nice detail to have on any coat.  I like having a place to put a letter, directions, map or phone.  This is called a double piping pocket and it's surprisingly easy to make.  The Roberto Cabrera tailoring book walks one through it step by step.  The extra hour spent working on this detail is well worth it.  

Making the collar was great fun.  The undercollar was supposed to be a single piece cut on the bias, but I didn't have enough fabric.  Making it in two pieces made absolutely no difference in the end.  Hair canvas interfacing was basted onto the wrong side and then held in place by decorative topstitching.  It makes for a very substantial collar.  

Here is the finished collar / collar stand unit.  A tailoring ham is great for pressing and shaping the curve of the collar.  The bottom of the collar stand will be basted together.  The next, and maybe most challenging step, will be to sew the coat, lining and collar all together in what I'm calling the "Big Seam".  


  1. Wow - that looks great!

    I can just see myself trying to get anything basted on - all the while having our great big housecat trying to catch the needle og chew the thread :-)

    Do you wax your thread before basting?

  2. Yes, I have a little block of bees wax that I run the thread through. It smells wonderful and makes the whole process that much more enjoyable.

  3. Hi, I know this post is from 5 years ago but i'm currently working on this same trench coat that you did and was wondering if you can lend me some guidance. I'm not a Japanese speaker so I'm a bit confused about the instruction for the lining assembly:

    when you put together the lining, did you use the 1cm seam stitch all around except for the the sides, where it says 0.5cm? Thanks in advance.