Thursday, September 1, 2011

TC = { (a2 + b2 +(cde)} in other words a trench coat is equal to the sum of its details?

For me a trench coat is all about the details.  There's just so much stuff going on! Epaulettes, storm flaps, belt loops here and there.  Maybe one of the reasons I've delayed making the coat is all of these details, which are usually topstitched to the Nth degree.   In my opinion if they're not done well, the whole coat looks like crap.  I'm using my Singer 301 which does a fine job of straight stitching, but I really struggle with edgestitching.  So I'm going to forego the double topstitching and will just topstitch everything at 1/4".  Call this playing it safe ( and knowing my limitations). 


3 of the 4 patterns in this book have welt pockets, but none of them are constructed the same way.  I'm getting more comfortable with them, but there's still something unnerving about slashing the fabric to make the pocket.  To calm my nerves I made a quick mock-up of the pocket with some sheeting.  It's nice to know where I'm headed, and it's good practice.  

This trench coat has rows of topstitching on the undercollar and the outside of the collar stand.  I decided to repeat this detail on the pockets, so before actually forming the welts, I topstitched rows 1/4" apart on the outside of the pocket.  The welts are then folded right sides together, the edges are stitched and the pocket is turned.  

Here is the final result. 

Because I live in a cool climate, I like putting my hands into warm pockets.  So I constructed one half of the pocket with black flannel and the other half of cotton pocketing.   For those of you with access to NYC, the flannel is from A & K Fabrics on W 39th.  It's 120" wide and only $10 / yd.  That's a lot of soft warm pockets!   

Here's the view from the outside.  Now it's on to the collar and the other little bits and pieces.  


  1. The top stitching looks great. I do like the idea of doing a practice fun on the welt pockets- my last (and first) I ruined. Oh, the tears...

  2. Flannel lining for pockets: why not use flannel on both bags and get total warmth when your hands are in the pockets? I always use flannel on both pocket bags.